Cabinet Installation Guide

Layout planning, leveling, securing to studs, filler strips, and hardware installation

Cabinet Installation Overview

Cabinet installation is a precise process that requires careful planning, accurate leveling, and proper securing techniques. Whether installing kitchen or bathroom cabinets, the key to a professional result is starting from the highest point in the floor and working methodically to ensure all cabinets are level, plumb, and securely fastened to wall studs.

Proper cabinet installation ensures doors and drawers operate smoothly, countertops sit level, and the entire assembly is structurally sound. The process involves layout planning, establishing level reference lines, installing upper cabinets first (in kitchens), then base cabinets, adding filler strips where needed, and completing with hardware and adjustments.

Critical First Step: Always find the high point in your floor before beginning installation. All measurements and leveling start from this point to ensure cabinets are level even if the floor is not.

Pre-Installation Planning

1. Find the High Point

• Use a 6-8 ft level to check floor level in all directions
• Mark the highest point on the floor - this is your reference
• All base cabinet measurements start from this high point
• Typical base cabinet height is 34.5" plus countertop thickness (usually 1.5")
• Mark a level line around the room at 34.5" from the high point

2. Locate and Mark Studs

• Use a stud finder to locate all wall studs
• Mark stud centers with light pencil marks above and below cabinet height
• Studs are typically 16" or 24" on center
• Verify stud location by drilling small test holes if needed
• Plan to secure cabinets through the back rail into at least 2 studs per cabinet

3. Establish Upper Cabinet Height

• Standard height: 18" above countertop (54" from floor to bottom of upper cabinet)
• Mark a level line at 54" from high point for standard installation
• Adjust for ceiling height, lighting, or personal preference (15"-20" is acceptable range)
• Consider range hood requirements - typically 24"-30" above cooktop
• Use laser level for long runs to ensure consistent height

4. Plan Cabinet Layout

• Start from a corner or focal point and work outward
• Calculate filler strip locations (between cabinets and walls/appliances)
• Plan for dishwasher, range, and refrigerator openings
• Verify cabinet sizes match your layout plan
• Check for plumbing, electrical, and HVAC conflicts

Installation Sequence

Pro Tip: In kitchens, always install upper cabinets first. This prevents damage to base cabinets and countertops and provides easier access for drilling and securing.

Step	Task	Key Points
1	Install Ledger Board (Upper Cabinets)	Temporary support screwed into studs at marked height line
2	Install Upper Corner Cabinet	Start from corner, rest on ledger, secure to studs
3	Add Adjacent Upper Cabinets	Clamp face frames together, ensure flush alignment
4	Secure Upper Cabinets	2.5" screws through back rail into studs (minimum 2 per cabinet)
5	Remove Ledger Board	After all uppers are secured
6	Install Base Corner Cabinet	Level from high point, shim as needed
7	Add Adjacent Base Cabinets	Clamp face frames, level front-to-back and side-to-side
8	Secure Base Cabinets	Through back rail to studs, through face frames to each other
9	Install Filler Strips	Scribe to walls, secure to cabinet face frames
10	Install Toe Kick	Match or coordinate with cabinet finish

Ledger Board Technique (Upper Cabinets)

A ledger board is a temporary support that makes upper cabinet installation much easier. It holds cabinets at the correct height while you level and secure them.

Ledger Board Installation Steps

Cut a straight 1×3 or 1×4 board slightly shorter than the cabinet run length
Position the top edge at your marked line (54" from floor for standard installation)
Ensure the board is perfectly level using a 4-6 ft level
Secure with 2.5" screws into studs every 16"-24" (use enough screws to support cabinet weight)
Rest upper cabinets on the ledger while securing to wall
Remove ledger after all upper cabinets are secured to studs

Important: The ledger board only supports the cabinet temporarily. Upper cabinets must be secured through their mounting rails into wall studs with appropriate screws.

Leveling and Shimming Techniques

Base Cabinet Leveling

Front-to-Back Level

• Place level on cabinet from front to back
• Adjust cabinet legs or add shims under toe kick area
• Most cabinets have adjustable legs - turn counterclockwise to raise
• Ensure back of cabinet sits flush against wall

Side-to-Side Level

• Place level across top front rail of cabinet
• Adjust legs or shims to achieve level
• Check that adjacent cabinets align at same height
• Face frames should be flush when cabinets are clamped together

Shimming Best Practices

• Use composite or plastic shims (won't compress or rot like wood)
• Place shims at mounting points - behind cabinet where screws will go
• Stack shims to achieve desired thickness
• Score and snap shims flush after securing cabinet
• Never over-shim - this can distort the cabinet box

Common Leveling Mistakes

❌ Not starting from the high point - leads to cabinets sitting on shims throughout
❌ Leveling to the floor instead of to each other - creates uneven countertop line
❌ Forgetting to check diagonal measurements - cabinet may be racked
❌ Over-tightening screws before leveling - can pull cabinets out of level

Securing Cabinets to Studs

Fastening Requirements

Cabinet Type	Screw Size	Quantity	Location
Upper Cabinets	2.5" - 3" wood screws	Minimum 4 screws (2 studs)	Through upper mounting rail into studs
Base Cabinets	2.5" - 3" wood screws	Minimum 4 screws (2 studs)	Through lower mounting rail into studs
Face Frame Joining	1.25" - 1.5" screws	3-4 per joint	Through face frame into adjacent cabinet
Filler Strips	1.25" screws	Every 12"	Through filler into cabinet face frame

Critical: Upper cabinets MUST be secured into wall studs, not just drywall. Use a stud finder to locate studs. If studs don't align with cabinet mounting rails, use toggle bolts rated for the cabinet weight as a last resort.

Proper Securing Sequence

Position cabinet and verify it's level and at correct height
Clamp to adjacent cabinets (if applicable) ensuring face frames are flush
Drill pilot holes through mounting rail at stud locations
Insert screws but don't fully tighten yet
Re-check level and make fine adjustments
Tighten screws fully, starting from center and working outward
Secure face frames together with screws
Verify doors and drawers operate smoothly

Filler Strip Installation

Filler strips are narrow pieces of matching cabinet material used to fill gaps between cabinets and walls, appliances, or other fixed objects. They allow for proper door clearance and create a finished appearance.

When to Use Filler Strips

Between cabinet and wall to allow door/drawer clearance when opened 90°
Next to refrigerators or ranges to create uniform spacing
At end of cabinet runs for a finished look
To accommodate out-of-square walls or corners
Typical filler widths: 3", 6", 9" (can be trimmed to fit)

Scribing Filler Strips to Walls

Position the filler strip against the cabinet face frame, leaving slight overlap at wall
Use a compass or scribe tool set to the widest gap between filler and wall
Run the compass along the wall while marking the filler strip
Cut along the scribed line with a jigsaw or circular saw
Test fit and sand as needed for a tight fit against the wall
Secure with 1.25" screws from inside the cabinet into the back of the filler

Filler Strip Placement Guide

Location	Minimum Width	Reason
Blind corner cabinet	3"	Door clearance when opening adjacent cabinet
Next to range	1.5" - 3"	Allows handle clearance and air circulation
Next to refrigerator	1" - 3"	Door clearance and aesthetic spacing
Dishwasher gap	1.5"	Allows dishwasher removal without removing countertop
End cabinet at wall	As needed	Covers gap from out-of-square walls

Door and Drawer Adjustment

European Hinge Adjustment (Most Common)

Most modern cabinets use concealed European hinges with 3-way adjustment capability.

Adjustment	Screw Location	Effect
In/Out (Depth)	Screw closest to door	Moves door closer or further from cabinet
Up/Down (Height)	Mounting screws on hinge plate	Raises or lowers door position
Left/Right (Side)	Side adjustment screw	Moves door left or right to center in opening

Door Alignment Goals

Equal gaps (1/16" - 1/8") between all doors
Doors sit flush with face frame when closed
No binding or rubbing when opening/closing
Soft-close mechanisms engage smoothly (if equipped)
Doors align horizontally across cabinet run

Drawer Adjustment

Under-mount Drawer Slides

• Vertical adjustment: Loosen front mounting screws, adjust drawer height
• Side-to-side: Adjust mounting position of slide on drawer box
• Front tilt adjustment: Some slides have tilt screws at rear
• Check that drawer front is aligned with adjacent doors when closed

Drawer Front Adjustment

• Most drawer fronts are attached with adjustable screws from inside drawer
• Loosen screws slightly to shift drawer front position
• Align drawer front to match reveal and spacing of adjacent drawers/doors
• Tighten screws while holding drawer front in position

Hardware Installation Standards

Standard Hardware Placement

Item	Standard Placement	Notes
Upper Cabinet Knobs	Lower corner, 2-3" from edges	Consistent across all upper doors
Base Cabinet Knobs	Upper corner, 2-3" from edges	Consistent across all base doors
Drawer Pulls (Horizontal)	Centered on drawer front	Use template for consistent placement
Drawer Pulls (Vertical)	Centered horizontally, 1-2" from top	Maintains consistent look with doors
Large Drawer Pulls	Centered, typically 3-12" spacing	Measure hole spacing carefully

Hardware Installation Tips

Create a drilling template from cardboard or thin plywood for consistent hole placement
Drill pilot holes to prevent splitting, especially near edges
Use painter's tape on drill bit to mark drilling depth
Drill from the front to prevent blowout on visible surface
Measure twice, drill once - incorrectly placed holes are visible
Keep hardware orientation consistent throughout the kitchen

Pro Tip: Install hardware after all adjustments are complete. This prevents hardware from interfering with fine-tuning door and drawer positions.

Toe Kick Installation

The toe kick (also called toe space or kick board) is the recessed space at the bottom of base cabinets that allows you to stand close to counters comfortably.

Standard Toe Kick Dimensions

Height: 3.5" - 4" (standard is 3.5")
Depth: 3" - 4" recess from cabinet front
Material: 1/4" plywood, solid wood, or matching cabinet material
Finish: Match cabinet color or use contrasting color for design effect

Installation Methods

Method 1: Clips and Returns

• Use plastic toe kick clips installed in cabinet base
• Snap toe kick board into clips
• Allows for easy removal to access under-cabinet space
• Best for finished installations

Method 2: Nailed or Screwed

• Attach directly to cabinet base with finish nails or screws
• More permanent installation
• Fill nail holes and touch up paint
• Good for painted cabinets

Cutting and Fitting

Measure total run length and height needed
Cut slightly long and test fit before final cut
Scribe to floor if floor is uneven (same technique as filler strips)
Miter or cope inside corners for professional appearance
Butt joints are acceptable for painted toe kicks
Use color-matched caulk to fill small gaps at floor

Tools and Materials Needed

Essential Tools

4-6 ft level
Laser level (highly recommended)
Stud finder
Cordless drill/driver
Clamps (spring clamps and bar clamps)
Tape measure
Pencil
Square (combination or speed square)
Scribe tool or compass
Circular saw or jigsaw
Shims (composite or plastic)
Stepladder

Fasteners & Materials

2.5" - 3" wood screws (cabinet to wall)
1.25" - 1.5" screws (face frame joining)
Filler strips (if needed)
Toe kick material
Toe kick clips (if using clip method)
Cabinet hardware (knobs/pulls)
Ledger board material (1×3 or 1×4)
Wood glue
Painter's tape
Sandpaper

Safety and Code Considerations

Upper Cabinet Safety: Upper cabinets must be secured into wall studs with appropriate screws. Never rely on drywall anchors alone - upper cabinets when filled can weigh 100+ pounds and pose serious injury risk if they fall.

Heavy Lifting: Cabinets are heavy and awkward. Use a helper when installing upper cabinets. Consider using a cabinet lift jack for solo installations. Always use proper lifting techniques.

Electrical and Plumbing: Turn off power to outlets before drilling. Be aware of plumbing locations - know where supply lines and drain pipes run. Call for professional help if you encounter unexpected wiring or plumbing.

Proper Ventilation: Range hoods must be vented according to manufacturer specifications and local codes. Ensure adequate clearance above cooktop (typically 24"-30" for gas, 18"-24" for electric).

Note: Check local building codes for specific requirements regarding cabinet installation, especially for accessibility standards, range hood clearances, and seismic zones that may require additional bracing.

Quick Reference Summary

Installation Sequence

Find high point in floor
Mark level lines at 34.5" (base) and 54" (upper)
Locate and mark all studs
Install ledger board for uppers
Install upper cabinets (corner first)
Install base cabinets (corner first)
Add filler strips
Adjust doors and drawers
Install toe kick
Install hardware

Critical Measurements

Base cabinet height: 34.5"
Countertop thickness: 1.5" (typical)
Total counter height: 36"
Upper cabinet clearance: 18" above counter
Upper cabinet bottom: 54" from floor
Toe kick height: 3.5"
Toe kick depth: 3"-4" recess

Disclaimer: This guide provides general information about cabinet installation. Specific cabinet manufacturers may have different requirements. Always follow manufacturer instructions and consult with a licensed contractor or building inspector for your specific application. Check local codes before beginning work.