Drill & Impact Driver Guide

Complete reference comparing drills vs impact drivers, covering drill bit types, torque settings, clutch adjustment, and proper techniques. Learn when to use each tool for drilling holes and driving screws.

Drill vs Impact Driver Comparison

Feature	Drill/Driver	Impact Driver
Chuck type	3-jaw keyless (1/2" or 3/8")	1/4" hex quick-release
Best for drilling	Yes - precise, controllable	No - hard to control
Best for driving	Light duty screws	Yes - 2-3x more torque
Long screws	Struggles, stalls	Effortless
Clutch	Yes - adjustable settings	No
Wrist torque	High (can twist wrist)	Low (impacts absorb)
Noise level	Moderate (85-90 dB)	Loud - impacts (95-100 dB)
Size/Weight	Larger, heavier	Compact, lighter

Recommendation

Own both if possible. Use the drill for making holes and light driving; use the impact driver for running screws. Many manufacturers sell combo kits with both tools sharing the same batteries.

Drill Types

Cordless Drill/Driver

Most versatile - drilling and light screw driving
Adjustable clutch prevents overdriving screws
Variable speed trigger for control
12V for light duty, 18V/20V for most work

Hammer Drill

Adds hammering action for drilling masonry
Essential for concrete, brick, block
Can be switched to drill-only mode for wood/metal
Use masonry bits with carbide tips

Rotary Hammer (SDS)

More powerful hammer action than hammer drill
Uses SDS bits - quick change, won't slip
For heavy-duty concrete drilling
Can also be used as light demolition hammer

Drill Bit Types

Bit Type	Best Materials	Notes
Twist bits (HSS)	Wood, plastic, soft metal	Most common, general purpose
Brad point	Wood only	Clean holes, center point prevents wandering
Spade/paddle	Wood	Large holes (3/8"-1.5"), fast but rough
Forstner	Wood	Flat-bottom holes, clean edges, overlapping holes
Hole saw	Wood, drywall, thin metal	Large diameter circles (3/4" - 6"+)
Self-feed	Wood	Large holes (1"-4"+), plumbing/electrical rough-in
Masonry	Concrete, brick, block	Carbide tip, use with hammer drill
Cobalt	Steel, stainless, hard metals	Heat resistant, for hard metals
Titanium coated	Wood, plastic, soft metal	Longer lasting than HSS, reduced friction
Step bit	Sheet metal, plastic	Multiple sizes in one bit, deburrs as it cuts

Using the Clutch

What Does the Clutch Do?

The numbered ring on a drill adjusts clutch settings. When driving screws, the clutch disengages when torque reaches the set level, preventing overdriving and stripping.

Clutch Settings

Low numbers (1-5): Light torque - delicate work, soft materials
Medium (6-12): General screw driving
High (13-20+): Harder materials, longer screws
Drill symbol: Clutch disabled - full torque for drilling

Setting the Clutch

Start at a lower setting and test
If screw doesn't seat fully, increase setting
If screw strips or sinks too deep, decrease
Consistent depth = professional results

Speed & Gear Settings

Two-Speed Gearbox

Low gear (1): Higher torque, lower speed - driving screws, large bits
High gear (2): Lower torque, higher speed - drilling small holes

When to Use Each Gear

Large drill bits (1/2"+): Low gear
Driving screws: Low gear
Small drill bits: High gear
Fast drilling in soft materials: High gear

Variable Speed Trigger

Start slowly to prevent bit wandering
Increase speed once hole is started
Slow down when breaking through
Control is key - full speed isn't always better

Drilling Techniques by Material

Wood

Use brad point for cleanest holes
Back up with scrap to prevent tearout
Clear chips frequently on deep holes
Reduce speed for hardwoods

Metal

Center punch first to prevent wandering
Use cutting oil for lubrication
Start slow, moderate pressure
Let the bit cut - don't force it
Cobalt bits for hard metals, HSS for soft

Concrete/Masonry

Must use hammer drill setting
Use masonry bits with carbide tips
Moderate pressure - let hammer action work
Withdraw periodically to clear dust

Tile/Glass

Use carbide or diamond-tipped bits
NO hammer action - will crack
Use tape on surface to prevent wandering
Keep bit cool with water
Light pressure, let bit do the work

Impact Driver Tips

Why Impact Drivers Excel at Driving

Rotational impacts deliver torque without twisting your wrist
Impacts break static friction - screws start easier
2-3x more torque than drills
Won't strip screws as easily (impacts work in bursts)

Best Practices

Use impact-rated bits only - standard bits will break
Keep bit firmly seated in screw head
Let the tool do the work - don't push hard
For delicate work, pulse the trigger

When NOT to Use Impact Driver

Drilling precise holes (hard to control)
Delicate materials (too aggressive)
Small brass screws (will strip)
Situations requiring precise torque control

Safety Considerations

Required PPE

Safety glasses: Metal chips and wood shavings
Hearing protection: Especially for impact drivers
No gloves - can catch on spinning bit
Tie back long hair

Bit Safety

Secure workpiece - never hold small pieces by hand
Know what's behind the surface you're drilling
Let bit cool periodically - hot bits dull faster
Dull bits require more pressure and can break

Battery Safety

Use manufacturer's charger only
Don't charge damaged batteries
Store away from heat and metal objects
Remove battery when changing bits

Additional Information

About This Drill & Impact Driver Guide

The drill and impact driver are the two most frequently used power tools for DIY projects. Understanding when to use each tool - and which drill bits work best for different materials - directly impacts the quality and efficiency of your work.

While many people start with just a drill/driver, adding an impact driver to your toolkit makes driving screws dramatically easier. The impact mechanism delivers torque in bursts rather than continuous rotation, which means less wrist strain and more power transmitted to the fastener. This is especially noticeable when driving long screws or working with dense materials.

Selecting the right drill bit for each material is equally important. A brad point bit makes clean holes in wood, while a cobalt bit is necessary for hard metals. Using the wrong bit leads to poor results at best and broken bits or damaged workpieces at worst.

Why Use This Reference Guide?

Quick reference for drill and driver selection helps you work more efficiently and achieve better results.

Understand when to use drill vs impact driver
Select the right drill bit for each material
Use clutch and speed settings properly
Apply correct techniques for wood, metal, and masonry
Maximize battery life and tool longevity
Work safely with these common power tools

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need both a drill and impact driver?

If you're doing regular DIY projects, yes - owning both is highly recommended. They excel at different tasks: the drill for making holes (precise control) and the impact driver for driving screws (more torque, less wrist strain). Many people start with just a drill/driver, which handles both tasks adequately for light work. But once you try an impact driver for driving screws, you won't want to go back. Combo kits that include both tools sharing the same batteries are often the best value.

What voltage drill should I buy?

For most DIY work, 18V/20V (same thing - marketing difference) provides excellent power-to-weight ratio. 12V compact drills are lighter and sufficient for light-duty work like furniture assembly and hanging pictures. If you're doing heavy-duty work or lots of masonry drilling, look at 18V/20V hammer drills. More voltage generally means more power and longer runtime but also more weight. The battery platform matters too - pick a brand and stick with it so batteries are interchangeable across tools.

Why does my drill bit wander when I start drilling?

Standard twist bits have a tendency to walk across the surface before biting in. Solutions: use a center punch to create a starting dimple, especially in metal. Use brad point bits in wood - the center point prevents wandering. Start at low speed with light pressure until the hole is established, then increase speed. Apply painter's tape over the spot to help grip. For metal, a small pilot hole helps larger bits start accurately. Keep the drill perpendicular to the surface.

Can I use regular drill bits in an impact driver?

Technically you can use hex-shank drill bits in an impact driver, but it's not ideal for precision holes. The impact action makes it hard to control where the bit goes, and you can't start slowly like with a drill. Impact drivers also lack a clutch, so you can't set depth. For drilling, a drill is simply better. However, impact-rated hex-shank bits are available for situations where you only have an impact driver - they're designed to handle the impacts without breaking.

What's the difference between 18V and 20V MAX?

Nothing functionally - it's marketing. DeWalt's "20V MAX" batteries are the same as competitors' 18V batteries. The "20V MAX" refers to the peak voltage of a fully charged battery, while "18V" refers to the nominal (average) voltage during use. Both are five-cell lithium batteries that perform identically. When comparing tools, look at actual performance specs rather than voltage claims. The battery's amp-hour (Ah) rating affects runtime more than the nominal voltage difference.

How do I drill into concrete?

You need a hammer drill (or rotary hammer for larger holes) and masonry bits with carbide tips. The hammer action pulverizes the concrete while the rotation clears debris. Use the hammer drill setting (regular drills won't work). Mark your hole, start slowly to establish position, then increase speed with moderate pressure. Periodically withdraw the bit to clear dust. Wear safety glasses and a dust mask - concrete dust is harmful. For anchors, drill slightly deeper than needed so dust doesn't prevent full anchor insertion.

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