Drill vs Impact Driver

Which one to use, with a task-by-task chart and bit guide. Pick a job for the tool, bit, setting and pilot hole, then compare torque, chuck, clutch and noise side by side.

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Need to cut or grind metal instead of drill it? See the angle grinder cheat sheet. Choosing the screw itself? Use the fastener guide and the fastener strength chart.

Which tool? Pick the job

Job

Material

Use: Impact driver

Bit or driver: T25 Torx, impact rated
Setting: Full speed, mode 2 or 3
Pilot hole: None needed

Long screws stall a drill and twist your wrist; impacts drive them without kickback.

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My project: tool and bit list

Which tool, bit and setting for each of 4 jobs, in order: drill/driver, impact driver.

Materials: $0
Time: Reference
Level: Beginner

4 steps 4 tools 4 materials

1
Drill pilot holes in wood
Drill/driver: Brad point or twist bit. High gear, drill mode (no clutch). A chuck holds round bits dead center and the trigger lets you start slow.
- Drill/driver ready
- Brad point or twist bit on hand
- Test on scrap first
2
3 in deck or construction screws
Impact driver: T25 Torx, impact rated. Full speed, mode 2 or 3. Pilot hole None needed in softwood, 1/8 in in hardwood. Long screws stall a drill and twist your wrist; impacts drive them without kickback.
- Impact driver ready
- T25 Torx, impact rated on hand
- Test on scrap first
3
Lag bolts (1/4 to 3/8 in)
Impact driver: Hex socket adapter, impact rated. Full power, stop before the head crushes the wood. Pilot hole 5/32 in (1/4 lag), 1/4 in (3/8 lag) in softwood, 3/16 in (1/4 lag), 9/32 in (3/8 lag) in hardwood. Lags need 1,000+ in-lb; a drill stalls. Drill the pilot with the drill first.
- Impact driver ready
- Hex socket adapter, impact rated on hand
- Test on scrap first

01 · Your numbers

Jobs: 4
Tools: Drill/driver, Impact driver

02 · The plan

4 steps · 4 tools · 4 materials

1 more steps, the full tool list and a shopping list you can check off as you go.

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Drill vs impact driver: specs side by side

Spec	Drill/driver	Impact driver
Torque	300 to 800 in-lb (18V)	1,500 to 2,000+ in-lb
Speed	0 to 500 low, 0 to 2,000 rpm high	0 to 3,000+ rpm
Impacts per minute	None (hammer drill: 25,000 to 34,000 bpm, axial)	3,000 to 4,000 ipm, rotational
Chuck	3/8 in or 1/2 in keyless, round or hex bits	1/4 in hex quick-release collet
Clutch	Yes, 15 to 25 settings plus drill mode	No clutch; speed modes on most
Weight (bare, 18V)	3 to 4 lb	2 to 3 lb
Head length	7 to 8.5 in	4.5 to 6 in
Noise	80 to 90 dB	95 to 100+ dB under load
Wrist kickback	Yes, can twist hard when a bit binds	Almost none
Price, bare tool	$60 to $200	$70 to $220

Drill: pros and cons

Pro: drills clean, accurate holes of any size
Pro: clutch sets screw depth every time
Pro: takes round bits, hole saws and mixers
Con: stalls on long screws and lags
Con: kicks your wrist when a bit binds

Impact driver: pros and cons

Pro: 2 to 3 times the torque in a smaller body
Pro: drives 3 in screws all day without wrist strain
Pro: less cam-out, breaks stuck bolts loose
Con: no clutch, easy to overdrive or snap small screws
Con: loud, and only takes hex-shank bits

Which tool for each job: 20-task chart

Job	Use	Why
Drill pilot holes in wood	Drill/driver	A chuck holds round bits dead center and the trigger lets you start slow.
Small screws (#6 to #8, up to 1-1/2 in)	Either one	Either drives them; the drill's clutch stops at the same depth every time.
Cabinet hinges, hardware, brass screws	Drill/driver	Soft brass and particleboard strip instantly under impacts.
Drywall screws	Drill/driver	The head must sit just below the paper without tearing it; an impact blows through.
3 in deck or construction screws	Impact driver	Long screws stall a drill and twist your wrist; impacts drive them without kickback.
Framing and structural screws	Impact driver	High torque in short bursts, no pilot needed with self-drilling tips.
Lag bolts (1/4 to 3/8 in)	Impact driver	Lags need 1,000+ in-lb; a drill stalls. Drill the pilot with the drill first.
Hole saw (door knobs, pipes)	Drill/driver	Hole saws bind and need steady low speed; impacts chatter and wander.
Spade or auger bit through studs	Drill/driver	Big wood bits need continuous torque; a right-angle drill is best for many holes.
Mixing paint, mortar or thinset	Drill/driver	Mixing needs smooth steady rotation; impacts only work under load.
Holes in concrete or brick	Hammer drill	A hammer drill pounds axially; an impact driver's blows are rotational and barely cut masonry.
Concrete screws (Tapcon)	Impact driver	Impacts drive them easily, but too much power strips the threads in concrete.
Holes in steel or sheet metal	Drill/driver	Metal needs slow, steady speed and pressure the drill gives you.
Holes in tile or glass	Drill/driver	Any impact or hammer action cracks tile.
Remove a stuck bolt or rusted screw	Impact driver	Hammer blows break the rust bond without camming out the head.
Flat-pack furniture assembly	Drill/driver	Particleboard strips easily; the clutch saves the cam locks.
Self-tapping metal roofing screws	Impact driver	Impacts drill and drive in one pass; overdriving crushes the washer.
Pocket hole screws	Drill/driver	The clutch keeps the screw from stripping the pocket or splitting the face.
Ledger and joist hanger screws	Impact driver	Structural screws like LedgerLOK or SDWS are built to be driven by an impact.
Fence pickets and rails	Impact driver	Hundreds of 2 in to 3 in screws go fastest with an impact.

Building a deck or fence? Size the structure with the deck calculator or the fence calculator, then check deck building for ledger and lag spacing. Hanging shelves? See shelf and closet organization.

How an impact driver works

Inside the nose is a spring-loaded hammer and an anvil. With no load the whole assembly spins like a drill. When the screw resists, the hammer slips back against the spring, rotates, and slams into the anvil around 3,000 times a minute. Each blow adds a burst of rotational torque, so the tool drives hard without twisting your wrist.

That is why an impact only clacks under load, and why its blows are rotational. A hammer drill pounds forward along the bit, which is what breaks up concrete.

Can an impact driver drill holes?

Yes, with hex-shank bits, and it does fine for small holes in wood and sheet metal: pilot holes, 1/4 in to 1/2 in holes through studs with a hex spade bit, and self-drilling roofing screws.

Use impact-rated hex-shank twist or spade bits; standard bits shatter
No clutch and no slow start, so holes wander and break out more
Large hole saws, Forstner bits and mixers bind and chatter
It will not drill concrete; that needs a hammer drill

Hammer drill, impact wrench and impact driver

Tool	Blows	Holds	For
Impact driver	Rotational	1/4 in hex	Screws, lags, small bolts
Impact wrench	Rotational, 150 to 1,000+ ft-lb	3/8 or 1/2 in square drive	Lug nuts, big bolts, sockets
Hammer drill	Axial, light	Keyless chuck	Holes in brick, block, small holes in concrete
Rotary hammer (SDS)	Axial, heavy piston	SDS-plus or SDS-max	Holes over 1/2 in in concrete, chiseling

Pilot hole size chart

Screw gauge	Softwood pilot	Hardwood pilot	Clearance hole
#4	1/16 in	5/64 in	1/8 in
#6	5/64 in	3/32 in	9/64 in
#8	3/32 in	7/64 in	11/64 in
#10	7/64 in	1/8 in	3/16 in
#12	1/8 in	9/64 in	7/32 in
#14	9/64 in	5/32 in	1/4 in

Drill the pilot with the drill, then drive with either tool. The clearance hole goes through the top board so the screw pulls the joint tight.

Do you need both?

If you only own one, buy the drill: it drills every hole and drives most screws. Add an impact driver the first time you build a deck, fence or shed, or drive more than a box of 3 in screws.

Combo kit vs bare tools: a 2-tool kit with 2 batteries and a charger usually costs less than the drill and one battery alone. Buy bare tools once you have batteries.
Brushless vs brushed: brushless runs 30 to 50 percent longer per charge and lasts longer; worth it on the impact driver, optional on a light-use drill.
Battery platform: pick one brand and stay on it; batteries are most of the cost. 12V is enough for furniture and light work, 18V/20V for decks and framing.

Drill Types

Cordless Drill/Driver

Most versatile - drilling and light screw driving
Adjustable clutch prevents overdriving screws
Variable speed trigger for control
12V for light duty, 18V/20V for most work

Hammer Drill

Adds hammering action for drilling masonry
Essential for concrete, brick, block
Can be switched to drill-only mode for wood/metal
Use masonry bits with carbide tips

Rotary Hammer (SDS)

More powerful hammer action than hammer drill
Uses SDS bits - quick change, won't slip
For heavy-duty concrete drilling
Can also be used as light demolition hammer

Drill Bit Types

Bit Type	Best Materials	Notes
Twist bits (HSS)	Wood, plastic, soft metal	Most common, general purpose
Brad point	Wood only	Clean holes, center point prevents wandering
Spade/paddle	Wood	Large holes (3/8"-1.5"), fast but rough
Forstner	Wood	Flat-bottom holes, clean edges, overlapping holes
Hole saw	Wood, drywall, thin metal	Large diameter circles (3/4" - 6"+)
Self-feed	Wood	Large holes (1"-4"+), plumbing/electrical rough-in
Masonry	Concrete, brick, block	Carbide tip, use with hammer drill
Cobalt	Steel, stainless, hard metals	Heat resistant, for hard metals
Titanium coated	Wood, plastic, soft metal	Longer lasting than HSS, reduced friction
Step bit	Sheet metal, plastic	Multiple sizes in one bit, deburrs as it cuts

Using the Clutch

What Does the Clutch Do?

The numbered ring on a drill adjusts clutch settings. When driving screws, the clutch disengages when torque reaches the set level, preventing overdriving and stripping.

Clutch Settings

Low numbers (1-5): Light torque - delicate work, soft materials
Medium (6-12): General screw driving
High (13-20+): Harder materials, longer screws
Drill symbol: Clutch disabled - full torque for drilling

Setting the Clutch

Start at a lower setting and test
If screw doesn't seat fully, increase setting
If screw strips or sinks too deep, decrease
Consistent depth = professional results

Speed & Gear Settings

Two-Speed Gearbox

Low gear (1): Higher torque, lower speed - driving screws, large bits
High gear (2): Lower torque, higher speed - drilling small holes

When to Use Each Gear

Large drill bits (1/2"+): Low gear
Driving screws: Low gear
Small drill bits: High gear
Fast drilling in soft materials: High gear

Variable Speed Trigger

Start slowly to prevent bit wandering
Increase speed once hole is started
Slow down when breaking through
Control is key - full speed isn't always better

Drilling Techniques by Material

Wood

Use brad point for cleanest holes
Back up with scrap to prevent tearout
Clear chips frequently on deep holes
Reduce speed for hardwoods

Metal

Center punch first to prevent wandering
Use cutting oil for lubrication
Start slow, moderate pressure
Let the bit cut - don't force it
Cobalt bits for hard metals, HSS for soft

Concrete/Masonry

Must use hammer drill setting
Use masonry bits with carbide tips
Moderate pressure - let hammer action work
Withdraw periodically to clear dust

Tile/Glass

Use carbide or diamond-tipped bits
NO hammer action - will crack
Use tape on surface to prevent wandering
Keep bit cool with water
Light pressure, let bit do the work

Impact Driver Tips

Why Impact Drivers Excel at Driving

Rotational impacts deliver torque without twisting your wrist
Impacts break static friction - screws start easier
2-3x more torque than drills
Won't strip screws as easily (impacts work in bursts)

Best Practices

Use impact-rated bits only - standard bits will break
Keep bit firmly seated in screw head
Let the tool do the work - don't push hard
For delicate work, pulse the trigger

When NOT to Use Impact Driver

Drilling precise holes (hard to control)
Delicate materials (too aggressive)
Small brass screws (will strip)
Situations requiring precise torque control

Safety Considerations

Required PPE

Safety glasses: Metal chips and wood shavings
Hearing protection: Especially for impact drivers
No gloves - can catch on spinning bit
Tie back long hair

Bit Safety

Secure workpiece - never hold small pieces by hand
Know what's behind the surface you're drilling
Let bit cool periodically - hot bits dull faster
Dull bits require more pressure and can break

Battery Safety

Use manufacturer's charger only
Don't charge damaged batteries
Store away from heat and metal objects
Remove battery when changing bits

Additional Information

About This Drill & Impact Driver Guide

The drill and impact driver are the two most frequently used power tools for DIY projects. Understanding when to use each tool - and which drill bits work best for different materials - directly impacts the quality and efficiency of your work.

While many people start with just a drill/driver, adding an impact driver to your toolkit makes driving screws dramatically easier. The impact mechanism delivers torque in bursts rather than continuous rotation, which means less wrist strain and more power transmitted to the fastener. This is especially noticeable when driving long screws or working with dense materials.

Selecting the right drill bit for each material is equally important. A brad point bit makes clean holes in wood, while a cobalt bit is necessary for hard metals. Using the wrong bit leads to poor results at best and broken bits or damaged workpieces at worst.

Why Use This Reference Guide?

Quick reference for drill and driver selection helps you work more efficiently and achieve better results.

Understand when to use drill vs impact driver
Select the right drill bit for each material
Use clutch and speed settings properly
Apply correct techniques for wood, metal, and masonry
Maximize battery life and tool longevity
Work safely with these common power tools

Frequently Asked Questions

Can an impact driver replace a drill?

Not fully. An impact driver can drive almost any screw and drill small holes with hex-shank bits, but it has no clutch, no slow start and no round chuck, so it cannot run hole saws, Forstner bits or paddle mixers well, and it overdrives small or brass screws. Most people end up owning both.

Why is an impact driver so loud?

The noise is the internal hammer striking the anvil about 3,000 times a minute, which reaches 95 to 100 dB or more. It only happens under load; with no resistance the tool spins quietly. Wear hearing protection for anything more than a few screws.

What is the difference between an impact driver and an impact wrench?

Both use rotational hammer blows. An impact driver has a 1/4 in hex collet for screw bits and delivers roughly 1,500 to 2,000 in-lb. An impact wrench has a 3/8 or 1/2 in square drive for sockets and delivers 150 to 1,000+ ft-lb, which is meant for lug nuts and large bolts, not screws.

Impact driver vs hammer drill: which do I need?

They solve different problems. A hammer drill pounds forward along the bit to drill masonry; an impact driver strikes rotationally to drive fasteners. For holes in concrete or brick get a hammer drill; for screws and lag bolts get an impact driver.

Do I need impact-rated bits?

Yes, in an impact driver. Standard bits are hard and brittle and snap or chip under the hammer blows. Impact-rated bits have a torsion zone that flexes slightly with each blow, so they last many times longer.

Is an impact driver good for drywall?

No. Drywall screws need to sit just below the paper without tearing it, and an impact driver has no clutch to stop at that depth. Use a drill with the clutch set around 8 to 12 and a dimpler bit, or a depth-setting drywall screw gun.

Do I need both a drill and impact driver?

If you're doing regular DIY projects, yes - owning both is highly recommended. They excel at different tasks: the drill for making holes (precise control) and the impact driver for driving screws (more torque, less wrist strain). Many people start with just a drill/driver, which handles both tasks adequately for light work. But once you try an impact driver for driving screws, you won't want to go back. Combo kits that include both tools sharing the same batteries are often the best value.

What voltage drill should I buy?

For most DIY work, 18V/20V (same thing - marketing difference) provides excellent power-to-weight ratio. 12V compact drills are lighter and sufficient for light-duty work like furniture assembly and hanging pictures. If you're doing heavy-duty work or lots of masonry drilling, look at 18V/20V hammer drills. More voltage generally means more power and longer runtime but also more weight. The battery platform matters too - pick a brand and stick with it so batteries are interchangeable across tools.

Why does my drill bit wander when I start drilling?

Standard twist bits have a tendency to walk across the surface before biting in. Solutions: use a center punch to create a starting dimple, especially in metal. Use brad point bits in wood - the center point prevents wandering. Start at low speed with light pressure until the hole is established, then increase speed. Apply painter's tape over the spot to help grip. For metal, a small pilot hole helps larger bits start accurately. Keep the drill perpendicular to the surface.

Can I use regular drill bits in an impact driver?

Technically you can use hex-shank drill bits in an impact driver, but it's not ideal for precision holes. The impact action makes it hard to control where the bit goes, and you can't start slowly like with a drill. Impact drivers also lack a clutch, so you can't set depth. For drilling, a drill is simply better. However, impact-rated hex-shank bits are available for situations where you only have an impact driver - they're designed to handle the impacts without breaking.

What's the difference between 18V and 20V MAX?

Nothing functionally - it's marketing. DeWalt's "20V MAX" batteries are the same as competitors' 18V batteries. The "20V MAX" refers to the peak voltage of a fully charged battery, while "18V" refers to the nominal (average) voltage during use. Both are five-cell lithium batteries that perform identically. When comparing tools, look at actual performance specs rather than voltage claims. The battery's amp-hour (Ah) rating affects runtime more than the nominal voltage difference.

How do I drill into concrete?

You need a hammer drill (or rotary hammer for larger holes) and masonry bits with carbide tips. The hammer action pulverizes the concrete while the rotation clears debris. Use the hammer drill setting (regular drills won't work). Mark your hole, start slowly to establish position, then increase speed with moderate pressure. Periodically withdraw the bit to clear dust. Wear safety glasses and a dust mask - concrete dust is harmful. For anchors, drill slightly deeper than needed so dust doesn't prevent full anchor insertion.

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