Driveway Repair and Sealing Guide (with Sealer Calculator)
Fix cracks and potholes, then seal asphalt or concrete. Estimate sealer, crack filler and cost, check when to seal and cure times, and print the checklist and shopping list.
Doing this on a real job? Seal a driveway: materials, tools and steps sized to your numbers.
Get the planWater heading for the foundation instead? See the basement waterproofing cheat sheet.
Driveway sealer calculator
- Area
- 800 sq ft
- Sealer
- 6 gal (2 pails)
- Crack filler
- 1 x 1 gal crack filler jug
- Cold patch
- 1 x 50 lb bag
- DIY cost
- $156
- Pro sealcoat
- $120 to $240
- Work time
- About 8 hours
- Cure
- Walk in 24 h, drive in 48 h
Tools: push broom, squeegee or sealcoat brush, edging brush, drill with mixing paddle, hand tamper. Coverage assumes 250 to 350 sq ft per gallon per coat; porous or old surfaces drink more.
Get a reminder before your sealcoat wears out
Save this driveway project: the shopping list as a checklist, the cost, a "seal when 2 dry days above 50°F" task, and a reseal reminder in 2 to 3 years. In the app you can snap a photo of your cracks to get a repair plan.
Crack fill and sealcoat 800 sq ft of asphalt driveway
Seal a 800 sq ft asphalt driveway with two thin coats, about 2 pails of sealer, after filling roughly 60 ft of cracks. Plan for two dry days above 50°F, then reseal in 2 to 3 years.
- Materials
- $156
- Time
- 1 weekend
- Level
- Easy
- 1
Pick the weather window
Sealer needs about 24 hours of dry weather above 50°F per coat, with no rain in the forecast. Avoid direct midday heat above 90°F.
- Check the 3-day forecast
- Move cars out
- Tell the household
- 2
Clean the surface
Sweep, pull weeds from cracks, and blow or wash off all dirt. Scrub oil spots with degreaser and prime them.
- Weed and sweep
- Pressure wash and let dry
- Prime oil spots
- 3
Fill cracks
Fill about 60 ft of cracks. Push backer rod into anything wider than 1/2", then fill to just below the surface.
- Backer rod in wide cracks
- Fill flush or slightly low
- Let cure per label
- Driveway
- 800 sq ft
- Sealer
- 2 pails (2 coats)
- Est. cost
- $156
7 steps · 8 tools · 6 materials
4 more steps, the full tool list and a shopping list you can check off as you go.
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Identify the crack, then fix it
Hairline cracks
Looks like: Thin lines under 1/8 in
Cause: Shrinkage and oxidation
Fix: Fill, then sealcoat over
Product: Sealcoat or squeeze-tube filler
DIY: yes
Linear cracks
Looks like: Single cracks 1/8 to 1/2 in
Cause: Freeze-thaw, settling, slab movement
Fix: Clean, fill flush
Product: Rubberized asphalt filler or polyurethane sealant
DIY: yes
Alligator cracking
Looks like: Interlocking pattern like reptile skin
Cause: Base failure or overload
Fix: Small area: cut out and patch. Large: resurface or replace
Product: Cold patch or hot mix
DIY: call a pro
Edge cracks
Looks like: Crumbling along the sides
Cause: No edge support, water, weeds
Fix: Patch, add soil or edging support
Product: Cold patch
DIY: yes
Potholes
Looks like: Bowl-shaped holes
Cause: Water through cracks washes out the base
Fix: Square the hole, fill in lifts, tamp
Product: Cold patch, 50 lb bags
DIY: yes
Spalling or heaving
Looks like: Flaking concrete surface or raised slabs
Cause: Salt, freeze-thaw, tree roots, frost
Fix: Spalling: resurfacer. Heaving: mudjacking or replace
Product: Concrete resurfacer
DIY: call a pro
Crack width rule: under 1/2 in, pourable or squeeze-tube filler. Over 1/2 in, push in foam backer rod first (or use cold patch on asphalt), then fill to 1/4 in below the surface.
Repair, reseal, resurface or replace?
| What you see | Age | Do this |
|---|---|---|
| Faded, gray, a few hairline cracks | Any | Fill cracks and reseal |
| Cracks under 1/2 in, a pothole or two | Under 15 yr | Fill, patch, reseal |
| Cracks over 25% of the surface, wide alligator patches | 10 to 20 yr | Resurface (2 in asphalt overlay) if the base is sound |
| Sinking, heaving, ruts, soft spots, water under the slab | Any | Base failure: replace |
| Asphalt 20+ yr or concrete 30+ yr and failing in several places | Old | Replace |
Pouring a new slab? Size it with the concrete slab calculator, the concrete calculator and the concrete mix calculator.
When to seal: weather and timing
- Temperature: 50°F or warmer and rising, and staying above 50°F for 24 hours. Under 90°F surface temperature.
- Rain: none for 24 hours on asphalt sealer, 24 to 48 hours on concrete sealer.
- Best months: late spring to early fall; in the north, May to September.
- New asphalt: wait 6 to 12 months for the oils to cure before the first sealcoat.
- New concrete: wait 28 days before sealing.
- Cure: foot traffic after 24 hours, cars after 48 hours (asphalt) or 72 hours (concrete).
- How often: asphalt every 2 to 3 years, concrete every 2 to 5 years. Fill asphalt cracks every spring.
Driveway sealer types compared
| Sealer | For | Lasts | Cost per gal | Odor and rules |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Coal tar emulsion | Asphalt | 3 to 5 yr | $8 to $12 | Strong odor, high PAH; banned in Washington, Minnesota and many cities and counties |
| Asphalt emulsion | Asphalt | 2 to 3 yr | $7 to $10 | Low odor, legal everywhere; the usual big-box pail |
| Acrylic or polymer | Asphalt or concrete | 3 to 7 yr | $20 to $40 | Low VOC, color-stable, costs more |
| Silane / siloxane penetrating | Concrete | 5 to 10 yr | $25 to $45 | Invisible, keeps out water and salt, no slippery film |
How to repair and seal a driveway in 8 steps
- Clean: Sweep, blow out every crack, and pressure wash; let it dry for a full day.
- Weed and edge: Pull weeds from cracks, kill roots, and trim grass back from the edges.
- Fill cracks: Backer rod in anything over 1/2 in, then pour or gun filler to just below the surface; let it cure per the label.
- Patch potholes: Cut out loose material, add cold patch in 2 in lifts, and tamp each lift hard.
- Prime oil stains: Scrub with degreaser and coat stains with oil spot primer so the sealer bonds.
- Cut in the edges: Brush a 6 in border along the garage, walks and edges, taping off concrete.
- Squeegee the first coat: Pour a ribbon of stirred sealer and pull thin, overlapping passes, working toward the exit.
- Second coat and cure: After 4 to 8 hours, apply a second thin coat crosswise; no feet for 24 hours, no cars for 48.
Prep with a pressure washer first; the pressure washing guide has the PSI and nozzle for asphalt and concrete.
Driveway maintenance protects your investment and extends pavement life by 50-100%. Asphalt driveways typically last 15-20 years with proper maintenance, or only 10-12 years without it. Concrete driveways last 25-30 years but still require crack sealing and joint maintenance.
The primary enemies of driveways are water infiltration (freeze-thaw damage, base erosion) and UV/oxidation (for asphalt). Small cracks become large cracks, then potholes, then base failure—each stage exponentially more expensive to repair.
| Maintenance Task | Asphalt Driveways | Concrete Driveways |
|---|---|---|
| Crack Filling | Use rubberized asphalt crack filler. Fill annually in spring. Cracks 1/4" to 1" wide. | Use polyurethane or silicone concrete crack sealant. Fill as needed. Address immediately to prevent widening. |
| Sealcoating/Sealing | Every 2-3 years with coal tar or asphalt emulsion sealer. Critical for UV protection and water resistance. | Optional. Acrylic sealer every 2-5 years for aesthetics and minor protection. Not as critical as asphalt sealcoating. |
| Pothole Repair | Cut out damaged area, clean, fill with cold patch asphalt, compact with tamper or vehicle. Permanent fixes require hot asphalt. | Rare in concrete. Spalling and surface damage more common. Use concrete resurfacer or patching compound. |
| Joint Maintenance | N/A (no joints in standard asphalt) | Critical. Clean and reseal control joints every 3-5 years with polyurethane or silicone sealant to prevent water infiltration. |
| Oil Stain Treatment | Deteriorates asphalt. Clean immediately with degreaser, then prime and patch. Prevention critical. | Stains surface but doesn't damage concrete. Clean with degreaser or poultice for aesthetics. |
| Edge Support | Edges crumble without support. Install edge restraints (concrete curb, Belgian block, or aggregate base extension). | Edges stronger but can chip. Typically doesn't need additional support unless subgrade washes out. |
| Cleaning | Sweep regularly. Pressure wash gently (1,500-2,000 PSI max) before sealcoating. Avoid high pressure on aged asphalt. | Pressure wash 3,000 PSI safe. Can use cleaners and degreasers. More resistant to pressure damage. |
| Typical Lifespan | 15-20 years with maintenance, 10-12 without. Sealcoating adds 5-7 years of life. | 25-30 years minimum. Can last 50+ years with proper joint sealing and crack repair. |
Asphalt Crack Filler Products
- • Rubberized asphalt crack filler (pourable): Best for cracks 1/4" to 1/2". Stays flexible. Apply cold or heat for better flow. (~$30-50 per 5-gal pail)
- • Rubberized asphalt tubes/cartridges: Convenient for small areas. Use with caulk gun. Good for narrow cracks. ($5-10 per tube, covers 20-30 linear feet)
- • Hot pour rubberized asphalt: Professional grade. Requires melter kettle. Best flexibility and longevity. Overkill for residential. (Pro use only)
- • Asphalt repair tape: Peel-and-stick for hairline cracks. Quick but less durable. Good temporary fix. ($15-25 per roll)
- • Cold patch asphalt: For cracks wider than 1" or shallow potholes. Not ideal for narrow cracks—use crack filler instead.
Concrete Crack Sealant Products
- • Self-leveling polyurethane sealant: Best for horizontal cracks in concrete. Pourable, flexible, UV-resistant. (~$10-15 per tube, 50-75 LF per tube)
- • Non-sag polyurethane sealant: For vertical applications (walls, steps). Won't drip. ($10-15 per tube)
- • Silicone concrete sealant: Excellent flexibility and adhesion. More expensive but longest-lasting. ($8-12 per tube, 25-30 LF per tube)
- • Textured concrete caulk: Contains sand for better color matching. Good for visible areas. ($7-10 per tube)
- • Concrete repair caulk (vinyl/acrylic): Paintable but less flexible. Budget option for non-critical cracks. ($4-7 per tube)
- • Hydraulic cement: For active water leaks or structural cracks. Sets in minutes. Not for dormant hairline cracks. ($10-20 per container)
Crack Filling Application Steps (Asphalt)
Step 1: Clean the Crack
- • Remove all loose debris, vegetation, old filler with wire brush or screwdriver
- • Blow out with leaf blower or compressed air
- • For dirty cracks, wash with pressure washer and let dry completely (24-48 hours)
Step 2: Prepare Crack (if needed)
- • For cracks wider than 1/2", use backer rod to fill depth (leave top 1/4-1/2" for filler)
- • For very wide cracks (over 1"), consider routing/widening with crack router or angle grinder for better adhesion
Step 3: Apply Crack Filler
- • Cut applicator tip at 45° angle slightly smaller than crack width
- • Slightly overfill crack—product will settle and shrink
- • For pourable filler, pour slowly in continuous bead
- • Work filler into crack with putty knife or squeegee if needed
Step 4: Smooth and Cure
- • Smooth overfill with squeegee or trowel before it skins over
- • Allow to cure per product instructions (typically 24-48 hours) before traffic
- • Can sealcoat over crack filler after 30 days
Best Time for Crack Filling
- Temperature: 50-85°F ambient temp. Most products won't cure properly below 40°F.
- Season: Spring (after winter damage appears) or fall (before freeze-thaw). Avoid midsummer heat (over 90°F—product too runny).
- Weather: Dry conditions for 24-48 hours before and after application. No rain in forecast.
- Asphalt temp consideration: Cold weather = cracks open wider (better fill). Hot weather = cracks close (may squeeze out filler).
When to Sealcoat Your Asphalt Driveway
- • New asphalt: Wait 6-12 months before first sealcoat (allows oils to cure and surface to oxidize slightly for better adhesion)
- • Existing asphalt: Every 2-3 years depending on traffic, climate, sun exposure
- • Visual cues: Asphalt turning gray (oxidized), surface roughening, small cracks appearing, water no longer beads
- • High traffic areas: Sealcoat every 2 years (where you turn wheels most—end of driveway, garage approach)
- • Shaded areas: Can extend to 3-4 years (less UV damage)
- • Don't over-sealcoat: More than every 2 years causes buildup, cracking, and reduced life
Sealer Types: Coal Tar vs Asphalt Emulsion
| Feature | Coal Tar Sealer | Asphalt Emulsion |
|---|---|---|
| Durability | Excellent (3-5 years) | Good (2-3 years) |
| UV Resistance | Superior | Good |
| Gas/Oil Resistance | Excellent | Fair (can soften) |
| Cost | $$ (higher) | $ (lower) |
| Appearance | Deep black, rich finish | Black/brown, more natural |
| Eco-Friendliness | Contains PAHs (banned in some areas) | More eco-friendly, water-based |
| Best For | High-traffic, sunny areas, gas/oil exposure | Residential, eco-conscious, moderate traffic |
Sealcoating Application Process
Step 1: Clean Driveway (Critical)
- • Remove all dirt, debris, vegetation with broom or blower
- • Pressure wash (1,500-2,000 PSI) entire surface—dirt prevents adhesion
- • Treat oil stains with degreaser or oil stain primer (sealer won't stick to oil)
- • Allow to dry completely 24-48 hours (no moisture or sealer won't bond)
Step 2: Repair Cracks and Holes
- • Fill all cracks 1/4" or wider with crack filler (let cure 24-48 hours)
- • Patch potholes with cold patch or asphalt repair product
- • Trim/edge along sides for clean appearance (optional but professional-looking)
Step 3: Apply Sealer (Two Coats Recommended)
- • Stir sealer thoroughly (don't shake—creates bubbles)
- • Pour sealer in ribbon across driveway width
- • Spread with driveway squeegee or brush in thin, even coat
- • Work in one direction, overlapping strokes slightly
- • Allow first coat to dry 4-8 hours (until no longer tacky)
- • Apply second coat perpendicular to first for even coverage
Step 4: Cure and Reopen
- • Keep off for 24-48 hours (temperature dependent—cooler = longer)
- • Avoid parking on fresh sealer for 72 hours (tire marks will occur)
- • No turning wheels while stationary for 7 days (can scuff surface)
Optimal Sealcoating Weather
- Temperature: 50-85°F during application and for 24 hours after. Ideal: 60-75°F.
- Forecast: No rain for 24-48 hours after application. Sealer must cure dry.
- Season: Late spring through early fall. Avoid hot midday sun in summer (sealer dries too fast).
- Time of day: Start early morning—gives maximum cure time before evening dew.
- Humidity: Low to moderate. High humidity extends cure time significantly.
Coverage and Cost
- • Coverage rate: 5-gallon pail covers 250-400 sq ft per coat (depending on surface texture)
- • Two-car driveway: ~400-600 sq ft = 2-3 pails for two coats
- • DIY cost: $0.15-0.30 per sq ft (materials only). $60-180 for typical driveway.
- • Professional cost: $0.40-0.80 per sq ft. $160-480 for typical driveway. Includes prep, repairs, warranty.
- • ROI: $200 DIY sealcoat every 3 years vs $8K-15K driveway replacement = excellent investment
Control joints (saw cuts in concrete) are intentional weaknesses that control where concrete cracks as it expands/contracts. Unsealed joints allow water infiltration, leading to base erosion, freeze-thaw damage, and eventual panel settlement or cracking.
Why Joint Sealing Matters
- • Prevents water infiltration: Water under slab washes away base, causing settlement and cracking
- • Stops freeze-thaw damage: Water in joints freezes, expands, causes spalling (surface flaking) and joint widening
- • Prevents weed growth: Unsealed joints fill with dirt and vegetation
- • Reduces maintenance: Sealed joints stay clean and prevent further damage
- • Frequency: Reseal every 3-5 years or when sealant shows cracks, loss of adhesion, or has pulled away from joint edges
Joint Sealant Selection
- • Self-leveling polyurethane (best choice): Pourable, automatically levels, excellent flexibility (+/- 25% movement), UV-resistant. For joints 1/4" to 1-1/2" wide. ($10-15 per tube, 30-50 LF)
- • Non-sag polyurethane: For vertical or sloped joints. Stays in place while curing. ($10-15 per tube, 25-30 LF)
- • Silicone sealant: Excellent flexibility and adhesion. More expensive but very durable. Good for residential. ($8-12 per tube, 20-30 LF)
- • Asphalt-based joint filler: Pourable, inexpensive, but shorter lifespan. Good for low-visibility areas. ($25-40 per 5-gal pail)
- • Don't use: Standard latex/acrylic caulk (not flexible enough, fails within 1-2 years)
Joint Sealing Process
Step 1: Clean Out Old Sealant
- • Remove all old sealant, vegetation, and debris with hook blade, wire brush, or oscillating tool
- • Clean joint to at least 3/4" depth (or to bottom of joint if shallower)
- • Blow out dust and debris with leaf blower or compressed air
Step 2: Install Backer Rod (if needed)
- • For joints deeper than 1/2", install foam backer rod to proper depth
- • Backer rod should be 25% wider than joint (compresses when inserted)
- • Depth: Sealant should be 1/4" to 1/2" deep (width-to-depth ratio of 2:1 ideal)
- • Push backer rod to desired depth with blunt tool (don't puncture)
Step 3: Apply Sealant
- • Cut sealant tip at 45° angle slightly narrower than joint width
- • Apply sealant in continuous bead, slightly overfilling
- • For self-leveling: pour slowly and it will seek its level
- • For non-sag: tool smooth with wetted finger, spoon, or caulk tool
Step 4: Cure
- • Allow to cure per manufacturer specs (typically 24-72 hours)
- • Avoid foot traffic until surface is tack-free
- • Full cure may take 7-14 days—avoid heavy loads during this time
Backer Rod Sizing Guide
- 1/4" joint: 3/8" backer rod (no backer rod often acceptable)
- 3/8" joint: 1/2" backer rod
- 1/2" joint: 5/8" backer rod
- 3/4" joint: 7/8" to 1" backer rod
- 1" joint: 1-1/4" backer rod
- Rule: Backer rod diameter = joint width × 1.25 (25% compression)
Spalling is the flaking or chipping of the concrete surface, typically caused by freeze-thaw cycles (water infiltrates, freezes, expands), deicing salts, or poor finishing techniques. Surface repairs restore appearance and prevent further deterioration.
Repair Methods by Damage Severity
- • Minor spalling (surface only, less than 1/4" deep): Clean and apply concrete resurfacer or thin coating. Skim coat entire slab for uniform appearance. ($1-2 per sq ft DIY)
- • Moderate spalling (1/4" to 1" deep): Chip out loose concrete, clean with degreaser, apply bonding agent, fill with concrete patching compound, trowel smooth. ($5-10 per sq ft DIY)
- • Severe spalling (over 1" deep or widespread): May require concrete overlay, micro-topping, or replacement. Consider professional assessment. ($3-8 per sq ft professional)
- • Edge spalling: Use polymer-modified concrete repair compound for edges and corners (better adhesion and strength). Mold form if needed.
Spalling Repair Steps (Moderate Damage)
Step 1: Remove Loose Material
- • Chip away all loose, flaking concrete with hammer and chisel
- • Create square edges (perpendicular to surface) for better patch adhesion
- • Undercut edges slightly if possible (wider at bottom than top)
- • Remove all dust and debris
Step 2: Clean and Prep
- • Pressure wash or scrub area to remove dirt, oil, and contaminants
- • Allow to dry or leave slightly damp per product instructions
- • Apply concrete bonding agent to repair area (critical for adhesion)
Step 3: Apply Repair Material
- • Mix concrete patching compound per instructions (don't over-water)
- • Trowel into repair area, packing firmly to eliminate air pockets
- • Overfill slightly and screed level with surrounding surface
- • Finish to match existing texture (broom, trowel smooth, etc.)
Step 4: Cure
- • Keep repair damp for 24-48 hours (mist with water or cover with plastic)
- • Avoid traffic for 24-48 hours (light foot traffic) to 7 days (vehicles)
- • Full cure takes 28 days but functional earlier
Preventing Future Spalling
- Seal concrete with penetrating sealer every 2-3 years (water repellent)
- Avoid or minimize use of deicing salts (use sand, kitty litter, or calcium magnesium acetate instead)
- Seal control joints to prevent water infiltration
- Ensure proper drainage—standing water accelerates damage
- Don't seal too early (wait 28 days after new concrete pour)
Tools
- Pressure washer (1,500-3,000 PSI)
- Driveway squeegee or brush (for sealcoating)
- Broom and leaf blower
- Caulk gun
- Putty knife or trowel
- Wire brush
- Hammer and chisel (concrete repair)
- Mixing paddle and drill (for patching)
- Safety glasses and gloves
- Knee pads (for joint work)
Materials
- Asphalt crack filler or concrete sealant
- Asphalt sealer (coal tar or emulsion)
- Cold patch asphalt (for potholes)
- Concrete patching compound
- Concrete bonding agent
- Concrete resurfacer (for spalling)
- Polyurethane joint sealant
- Backer rod (various sizes)
- Degreaser or cleaner
- Masking tape (for edges)
Note: Some HOAs and municipalities have restrictions on sealcoating colors, times, or products. Check local regulations before beginning work. Improper sealcoating (wrong temperature, poor prep, wrong product) can cause premature failure and waste money. When in doubt, consult or hire a professional.
Driveway sealing FAQ
How often should you seal a driveway?
Can you seal over cracks?
Can I seal my driveway in the fall?
What happens if it rains after sealing?
Should I add sand to driveway sealer?
How long before you can drive on a sealed driveway?
How much does it cost to seal a 2-car driveway?
Is coal tar or acrylic sealer better?
Maintenance Schedule
- Asphalt crack fill: Annually (spring)
- Asphalt sealcoat: Every 2-3 years
- Concrete joint seal: Every 3-5 years
- Concrete sealer: Every 2-3 years (optional)
- Pressure wash: Annually or before sealcoating
Key Takeaways
- Prevention is 10x cheaper than replacement
- Temperature matters—50-85°F ideal for most products
- Clean surface = good adhesion (critical step)
- Two thin coats better than one thick coat (sealcoating)
- Polyurethane for concrete joints, rubberized for asphalt cracks
Want color, not just sealer? See the concrete staining and stamping guide.
Disclaimer: This guide provides general information about driveway maintenance and repair. Climate conditions, driveway age, traffic patterns, and material quality vary significantly. Some repairs may require professional assessment, especially for structural issues or extensive damage. Product performance depends on proper surface preparation and application per manufacturer instructions. Always follow product safety data sheets and local environmental regulations.
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