Electrical requirements, mounting systems, drain connections, and dishwasher knockout
A garbage disposal (also called a disposer or garburator) is an electrically powered device installed under a kitchen sink that grinds food waste into small particles that can pass through plumbing. Proper installation requires attention to electrical safety, secure mounting, correct drain connections, and integration with dishwasher drainage if applicable.
Most disposals use one of two mounting systems: the traditional 3-bolt mount or the newer EZ mount/quick lock system. Understanding your mounting type and having the correct tools makes installation straightforward, typically taking 1-2 hours for a replacement or 2-3 hours for a new installation.
| Disposal Size | Typical Amperage | Recommended Circuit | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1/3 - 1/2 HP | 5-7 amps | 15A circuit | Light use, 1-2 people |
| 3/4 HP | 8-10 amps | 15A or 20A circuit | Medium use, 3-4 people |
| 1 HP | 11-13 amps | 20A circuit recommended | Heavy use, 5+ people |
Garbage disposals attach to the sink drain opening using one of two mounting systems. Both are secure when properly installed, but the process differs significantly.
| System Type | Brands | Installation Method | Pros/Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3-Bolt Mount | InSinkErator | Mounting ring, fiber gasket, 3 screws tightened with screwdriver | Very secure, requires helper to hold disposal while tightening |
| EZ Mount / Quick Lock | Waste King, Moen, KitchenAid | Mounting assembly, twist disposal to lock | Easier solo install, quick removal for service |
Garbage disposals discharge ground waste through the side outlet. This must connect to your drain system properly to prevent leaks and ensure proper drainage. The configuration depends on whether you have a single or double bowl sink and whether a dishwasher is present.
| Component | Standard Size | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Disposal outlet | 1-1/2" | Standard for all disposals |
| Drain tailpiece | 1-1/2" | Connects disposal to trap or tee |
| P-trap | 1-1/2" | Matches drain pipe size |
| Waste tee (double sink) | 1-1/2" | Combines two drains |
| Wall drain stubout | 1-1/2" or 2" | May need adapter if sizes differ |
CRITICAL STEP: If you have a dishwasher, you MUST remove the knockout plug from inside the disposal before connecting the dishwasher drain. Forgetting this step is a common mistake that prevents the dishwasher from draining and can cause water backup.
All garbage disposals have a built-in overload protector that shuts off power if the motor overheats or draws too much current. This prevents motor damage from jams or overuse.
| Problem | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Disposal hums but won't turn | Jammed grinding mechanism | Clear jam with hex key, press reset |
| No sound at all | No power or tripped reset | Check breaker, press reset button |
| Leaking from top/sink connection | Loose mounting or bad putty seal | Tighten mounting or remount with fresh putty |
| Leaking from side connections | Loose drain pipes or dishwasher hose | Tighten connections, check gaskets |
| Leaking from bottom | Failed internal seal (not repairable) | Replace disposal |
| Dishwasher not draining | Knockout plug not removed | Remove disposal and knock out plug |
| Loud rattling noise | Foreign object in grinding chamber | Turn off power, remove object with pliers |
Choosing the right disposal size (horsepower) depends on household size, cooking frequency, and budget. Larger motors grind faster, handle tougher waste, and are quieter.
| Motor Size | Best For | Price Range | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1/3 HP | 1-2 people, light use | $50-$100 | Basic, slower grinding, louder |
| 1/2 HP | 2-3 people, moderate use | $80-$150 | Good balance of price and performance |
| 3/4 HP | 3-5 people, regular use | $150-$250 | Faster, handles tougher waste, quieter |
| 1 HP | 5+ people, heavy use, large households | $250-$400+ | Commercial-grade, very quiet, longest life |
Shut off power at the circuit breaker. Test with voltage tester to confirm power is off. If replacing existing disposal, disconnect and remove old unit.
If you have a dishwasher, knock out the plug from the dishwasher inlet and retrieve it from inside the disposal. Do not skip this step!
Apply plumber's putty to sink flange and install mounting assembly from below. Tighten according to your mounting system (3-bolt or EZ mount).
Either hardwire directly or install power cord and plug into switched outlet. Ensure proper grounding and use wire nuts for all connections.
Lift disposal and attach to mounting assembly. Use support under disposal or a helper. Rotate or tighten until disposal is secure and level.
Attach drain elbow to disposal outlet. Connect to P-trap and wall drain using slip joint connections. Ensure proper slope and support.
Attach dishwasher drain hose to disposal inlet with hose clamp. Ensure high loop or air gap is properly installed per code requirements.
Restore power. Run cold water and turn on disposal. Check all connections for leaks. Run dishwasher through drain cycle if applicable. Tighten connections if needed.
Note: Local electrical and plumbing codes vary. Some jurisdictions require GFCI protection, specific venting, or professional installation. Check with local building department before beginning work. Permit may be required for new installations.
Disclaimer: This guide provides general information about garbage disposal installation. Always follow manufacturer instructions specific to your model. Local electrical and plumbing codes must be followed. If you're uncomfortable with electrical work, hire a licensed electrician. Check local codes regarding permits, GFCI requirements, and disposal use with septic systems.