Jigsaw Guide

Complete reference for jigsaw blade selection, orbital action settings, curved cuts, interior cutouts, bevel cuts, and technique tips. Essential for cutting curves and making interior cutouts.

When to Use a Jigsaw

The jigsaw excels at cuts other saws can't make:

Curved and irregular cuts
Interior cutouts (sink openings, electrical boxes)
Cutting shapes and patterns
Plunge cuts (starting in the middle of material)
Bevel cuts up to 45°
Scrollwork and intricate designs
Cutting materials too awkward for other saws

The jigsaw is the most versatile saw for DIY work - it can make any cut a circular saw or miter saw can make (though not as efficiently), plus curved cuts they can't make at all.

Orbital Action Settings

What is Orbital Action?

Orbital action moves the blade forward on the upstroke (cutting stroke), making cuts faster but rougher. Higher settings = more aggressive cut.

Setting	Cut Speed	Cut Quality	Best For
0 (No orbital)	Slowest	Smoothest	Metal, plastic, finish cuts
1	Slow	Smooth	Hardwoods, tight curves
2	Moderate	Balanced	General purpose wood
3	Fastest	Roughest	Fast cuts in softwood, demo

Blade Selection Guide

Blade Shank Types

T-shank: Most common, tool-free change, universal fit
U-shank: Older style, requires set screw, being phased out

TPI	Cut Type	Best Materials
6 TPI	Very fast, rough	Thick softwood, fast demo
8-10 TPI	Fast, moderate	General wood cutting
10-12 TPI	Balanced	Plywood, general purpose
14-18 TPI	Smooth	Thin materials, hardwood
20-24 TPI	Very smooth	Metal, plastics
32+ TPI	Ultra-fine	Thin sheet metal

Specialty Blades

Reverse tooth: Cuts on downstroke, reduces tearout on top surface
Bi-metal: Flexible body, hardened teeth - lasts longer in metal
Carbide grit: For tile, fiberglass, cement board
Scrolling: Narrow for tight curves

Cutting Techniques

Straight Cuts

Use a straight edge guide clamped to workpiece
Let the shoe ride against the guide
Not as accurate as circular saw but works in a pinch
Use higher orbital setting for faster cutting

Curved Cuts

Mark cut line clearly
Use lower orbital setting for control
For tight curves, use narrower (scrolling) blade
Don't force the blade - let it cut at its pace
Make relief cuts for tight inside curves

Interior Cutouts

Drill method: Drill starter hole inside waste area, insert blade
Plunge cut: Tilt saw forward on shoe tip, lower blade into material
Stay slightly inside cut line, then trim to exact size
For corners, cut past the corner and come back from other direction

Bevel Cuts

Adjust shoe angle (most saws go 0-45°)
Verify angle with protractor before cutting
More difficult to control - go slowly
Support workpiece well to prevent vibration

Reducing Tearout

Why Tearout Happens

Standard jigsaw blades cut on the upstroke, so tearout occurs on the top surface. The blade exits the material at the top, tearing fibers rather than cutting cleanly.

Solutions:

Cut good side down: Tearout on back surface instead
Use reverse tooth blade: Cuts on downstroke, tearout on bottom
Apply masking tape: Along cut line on top surface
Score the line: With utility knife before cutting
Use zero-clearance insert: If your jigsaw accepts them
Higher TPI blade: More teeth = cleaner cut
Reduce orbital action: Less aggressive = less tearout

Safety & Best Practices

Required PPE

Safety glasses: Flying chips and dust
Hearing protection: 90-95 dB
Dust mask: Especially for MDF, particleboard

Workpiece Support

Secure workpiece firmly - vibration is common
Support near the cut to minimize vibration
Keep blade clear of sawhorses/supports
Don't let cut-off piece pinch blade

Blade Care

Let blade stop before setting down saw
Replace bent or dull blades immediately
Match blade to material - wrong blade damages both
Keep spare blades on hand - they're consumables

Additional Information

About This Jigsaw Guide

The jigsaw is one of the most versatile saws available, capable of cutting curves, making interior cutouts, and handling materials that would be difficult with other saws. While it can technically make straight cuts (with a guide), its real strength is in cuts that other saws simply cannot make.

Understanding orbital action settings and blade selection is key to getting good results. Higher orbital settings cut faster but rougher - great for demolition or rough work, but poor for finish cuts. Lower orbital settings (or none) give smoother cuts but take longer. Similarly, blade TPI determines cut quality and speed.

For interior cutouts like sink openings or outlet boxes, the jigsaw is often the only practical tool. Learning to plunge cut (starting in the middle of material) or using drilled starter holes opens up possibilities that no other portable saw offers.

Why Use This Jigsaw Reference?

Quick reference for jigsaw settings and blade selection helps you get clean cuts efficiently.

Select the right orbital setting for each material
Choose appropriate blade TPI for the cut quality you need
Understand when to use specialty blades
Learn techniques for curves, cutouts, and bevels
Minimize tearout on finished surfaces
Work safely with this versatile tool

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my jigsaw cut crooked?

Several factors cause crooked cuts: blade flexing from pushing too hard (let the blade cut at its own pace), blade too long for material thickness (use shortest blade that works), dull blade (replace it), or blade not perpendicular to the shoe (check that blade clamp is tight and blade is seated correctly). For straight cuts, always use a guide clamped to the workpiece - jigsaws are not designed for freehand straight cuts.

How do I cut a circle with a jigsaw?

For small circles: drill a starter hole, insert the blade, and carefully cut along the marked line. For larger circles: use a circle-cutting jig (some jigsaws include one). The jig has a pivot point that attaches to the center of your circle - the jigsaw then cuts around this pivot at a consistent radius. For rough circles, freehand is fine. For precise circles, make the cut slightly small and sand to the line.

What's the best blade for cutting laminate countertops?

Use a reverse-tooth (downcut) blade with high TPI (12+). The reverse tooth cuts on the downstroke, which pushes the laminate down against the substrate rather than pulling it up and chipping it. Cut with the laminate face DOWN when using a standard (upcut) blade, or face UP with a reverse-tooth blade. Apply masking tape along the cut line for extra chip protection. Use orbital setting 0 or 1 for smoothest cut.

Can a jigsaw cut metal?

Yes, with the right blade. Use a bi-metal blade with 20-24 TPI for typical sheet metal, or 32+ TPI for thin sheet metal. Set orbital action to 0 (no orbital). Go slowly and let the blade do the work - forcing it causes premature wear. Use cutting oil for lubricant on thicker metals. The jigsaw can cut steel, aluminum, copper, and other metals up to about 1/4" thick, though it's slow compared to dedicated metal-cutting tools.

How do I make a plunge cut with a jigsaw?

Plunge cutting starts a cut in the middle of material without a pre-drilled hole: 1) Mark your cut line and where you want to plunge. 2) Tilt the saw forward so only the front tip of the shoe touches the workpiece, blade not touching. 3) Start the saw at full speed. 4) Slowly lower the back of the saw, allowing the blade to cut into the material. 5) Once blade is through, level the shoe and continue cutting. Practice on scrap first - it takes feel to do smoothly.

Why does my jigsaw blade break?

Common causes: twisting the blade sideways (especially in curves - use relief cuts for tight turns), blade too thin for the material thickness, forcing the blade (let it cut at its own speed), blade overheating in thick material (pause to let it cool), or hitting embedded metal like nails. Also check that the blade is properly seated in the clamp. For tight curves, use narrower scrolling blades designed for that purpose. Replace blades frequently - they're inexpensive and dull blades cause problems.

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