Laminate & Vinyl Plank Flooring Guide

Complete guide to laminate and vinyl plank flooring installation covering click-lock vs glue-down methods, underlayment types, expansion gaps, cutting techniques, and professional installation tips.

Installation Methods Comparison

Click-Lock/Floating Floor

Most Popular

Planks lock together, float over underlayment

Advantages:

  • DIY-friendly, no special tools required
  • Fast installation (200-400 sq ft per day)
  • Can be installed over minor subfloor imperfections
  • Removable and reusable (most types)
  • Immediate use after installation

Best For:

  • • Laminate flooring (all types)
  • • Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) and tile (LVT)
  • • Multi-level homes (easier carrying)
  • • Rental properties
  • • Above-grade and on-grade installations

Glue-Down

Professional

Planks adhered directly to subfloor with adhesive

Advantages:

  • More stable, less movement/noise
  • Better for high-traffic commercial areas
  • No height build-up (no underlayment)
  • Quieter underfoot, feels more solid
  • Works on stairs and vertical surfaces

Best For:

  • • Luxury vinyl tile (LVT) in commercial settings
  • • Stairs and step installations
  • • Uneven concrete slabs
  • • Permanent installations
  • • High-moisture areas (with waterproof adhesive)

Critical Differences

Skill Level

Click-lock: Beginner-friendly

Glue-down: Intermediate to advanced

Installation Time

Click-lock: 1-2 days for average room

Glue-down: 2-3 days plus adhesive cure time

Cost

Click-lock: Lower (DIY-friendly)

Glue-down: Higher (materials + labor)

Underlayment Types & Selection

Basic Foam (2mm)

Entry-level option

  • Cost: $0.15-0.25 per sq ft
  • Sound rating: IIC 62-65
  • Moisture barrier: None (need separate 6-mil poly)
  • Best for: Above-grade, budget projects
  • Compression: Minimal support
  • Installation: Tape seams

Premium Foam (3mm) with Vapor Barrier

Most popular choice

  • Cost: $0.35-0.60 per sq ft
  • Sound rating: IIC 67-70
  • Moisture barrier: Built-in (typically blue film)
  • Best for: All-grade installations, concrete
  • Compression: Good resilience
  • Installation: Overlap film, tape seams

Cork Underlayment (3-6mm)

Premium sound/thermal

  • Cost: $0.75-1.50 per sq ft
  • Sound rating: IIC 71-75
  • Moisture barrier: Requires separate vapor barrier
  • Best for: Multi-story, sound reduction priority
  • Compression: Excellent, returns to shape
  • Installation: Butt seams, tape

Felt Underlayment (2-3mm)

Recycled fiber material

  • Cost: $0.30-0.50 per sq ft
  • Sound rating: IIC 66-69
  • Moisture barrier: Some versions have integrated film
  • Best for: Denser floors, laminate
  • Compression: Firm, good support
  • Installation: Overlap, tape seams

Combination (Rubber/Cork Hybrid)

High-performance option

  • Cost: $0.60-1.00 per sq ft
  • Sound rating: IIC 70-73
  • Moisture barrier: Usually integrated
  • Best for: Premium installations, condos
  • Compression: Excellent durability
  • Installation: Tape or adhesive seams

Attached/Pre-Attached

Built into flooring

  • Cost: Included in flooring price
  • Sound rating: Varies (typically IIC 65-68)
  • Moisture barrier: May still need 6-mil poly
  • Best for: Quick DIY projects
  • Compression: Usually thin, basic
  • Installation: None required (except vapor barrier)

Underlayment Selection Guide

  • Concrete subfloor: Must have moisture barrier (6-mil poly or integrated)
  • Wood subfloor above grade: Basic foam acceptable, premium foam recommended
  • Second floor/condos: Premium foam or cork for sound reduction (check HOA requirements)
  • High-traffic areas: Denser felt or combination underlayment
  • Radiant heat: Thin, heat-conductive underlayment (2mm max, check flooring specs)
  • Uneven subfloor: Thicker cork or felt helps bridge minor imperfections
  • Pre-attached pad: Still use 6-mil poly vapor barrier over concrete

Expansion Gap Requirements

Why Expansion Gaps Are Critical

Even though vinyl is more dimensionally stable than wood, ALL floating floors expand and contract with temperature changes. Laminate expands significantly with humidity. Without proper gaps, floors will buckle, warp, or develop peaks at seams.

Rule: Expansion gap must never be covered or restricted by baseboards, cabinets, or fixed objects.

Standard Expansion Gap Sizes

Floor TypeStandard GapRoom Over 30 ftNotes
Laminate Flooring3/8 inch (10mm)1/2 inch (12mm)Expands/contracts most with humidity
Rigid Core LVP (SPC/WPC)1/4 inch (6mm)3/8 inch (10mm)More stable than laminate
Flexible LVP1/4 inch (6mm)3/8 inch (10mm)Temperature-sensitive
Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT)1/4 inch (6mm)3/8 inch (10mm)Check manufacturer specs

Where Gaps Are Required

  • All perimeter walls: Full gap around entire room
  • Door jambs/casings: Undercut and maintain gap
  • Kitchen islands/cabinets: Same as perimeter walls
  • Fireplace hearths: Full gap all around
  • Pipes/posts: Use pipe collars/escutcheons
  • Transitions: 1/4" gap under T-molding track

Using Spacers During Installation

  • Use manufacturer-provided spacers or cut scrap pieces
  • Place spacers every 12-18 inches along walls
  • Keep spacers in place until floor is completely installed
  • Remove spacers before installing quarter round/molding
  • For large rooms, use transition strips every 40-50 feet

Cutting Techniques & Tools

Jigsaw Cutting

Best for: Curved cuts, irregular shapes, obstacles (pipes, vents)

  • Blade type: Fine-tooth wood blade or laminate-specific blade
  • Technique: Cut from backside to prevent chipping on face
  • Speed: Medium speed, let blade do the work
  • Support: Support both sides of cut to prevent breaking
  • Tip: Use painter's tape over cut line to reduce chipping

Miter Saw Cutting

Best for: Straight crosscuts, consistent lengths, repetitive cuts

  • Blade type: 80-100 tooth carbide blade (fine finish)
  • Technique: Cut face-up, slow steady motion
  • Speed: Let blade reach full speed before cutting
  • Support: Use miter saw stand or support for long planks
  • Tip: Clamp plank securely to fence for clean cuts

Table Saw Cutting

Best for: Long rip cuts, cutting planks to width, first/last rows

  • Blade type: 60-80 tooth combination or laminate blade
  • Technique: Cut face-up with fence guide
  • Feed rate: Steady, consistent pressure (not too fast)
  • Safety: Use push stick for narrow cuts (under 6")
  • Tip: Zero-clearance insert reduces tear-out

Utility Knife Scoring (Vinyl Only)

Best for: Flexible vinyl plank, quick field cuts (not laminate)

  • Technique: Score face deeply with straight edge
  • Method: Bend plank away from score line to snap
  • Best for: Widthwise cuts on flexible vinyl
  • Not for: Rigid core LVP, SPC, WPC, or laminate
  • Tip: Replace blade frequently for clean scores

Cutting Tips to Prevent Chipping

  • • Use fresh, sharp blades (dull blades cause excessive chipping and melting)
  • • Apply painter's tape over cut line on decorative surface before cutting
  • • Cut laminate face-down with circular/table saw, face-up with miter saw
  • • Cut vinyl face-up with all saw types (backing material chips easily)
  • • Use fine-tooth blade: minimum 60 teeth for laminate, 80+ for cleanest cuts
  • • Support material on both sides of cut to prevent sagging/breaking
  • • Let saw reach full speed before contacting material
  • • Feed material slowly and steadily (rushing causes tear-out)

Undercutting Door Jambs

Why Undercut Door Jambs?

Sliding flooring under door jambs and casings creates a professional, seamless appearance. It's much easier than trying to notch/scribe flooring around intricate trim profiles, and it looks significantly better. This is standard practice for all floating floor installations.

Cutting Method: Jamb Saw

Best tool for undercutting

  • Setup: Set depth to flooring + underlayment thickness + 1/16"
  • Guide: Use scrap flooring piece as height guide
  • Technique: Slowly slide saw along jamb/casing at floor level
  • Safety: Wear safety glasses, expect sawdust spray
  • Advantages: Clean cut, fast, purpose-built tool

Alternative: Oscillating Multi-Tool

If you don't have a jamb saw

  • Setup: Use wood cutting blade (half-moon or straight)
  • Guide: Stack flooring + underlayment as height guide
  • Technique: Rest tool on guide, cut straight across
  • Tip: Cut from both sides if jamb is thick (meeting in middle)
  • Advantages: More control, good for tight spaces

Step-by-Step Process

  1. 1.Create guide spacer: Stack flooring plank + underlayment piece together
  2. 2.Position guide: Place stacked spacer flat against door jamb/casing
  3. 3.Make cut: Rest saw on top of guide, cut horizontally through jamb
  4. 4.Cut all jambs: Repeat for both sides of doorway and front casing
  5. 5.Remove cutoff: Use chisel or utility knife to remove cut piece
  6. 6.Test fit: Slide flooring piece under jamb to verify clearance
  7. 7.Vacuum clean: Remove all sawdust before proceeding

Pro Tips

  • • Add 1/16" extra clearance to account for any high spots in subfloor
  • • Undercut jambs BEFORE installing underlayment for easier cleanup
  • • Use painter's tape on jamb to reduce splintering and protect finish
  • • For carpet-to-hardfloor transitions, undercut higher (old carpet height + new floor height)
  • • Don't forget to undercut both sides of double doorways and closets
  • • Save cutoff pieces to verify floor slides smoothly underneath before installation

Dealing with Obstacles & Complex Cuts

Pipes & Round Obstacles

  • 1.Position plank where it will be installed next to pipe
  • 2.Measure distance from wall to pipe center (X and Y coordinates)
  • 3.Transfer measurements to plank, mark pipe location
  • 4.Drill hole 1/2" larger than pipe diameter (for expansion gap)
  • 5.Cut plank from hole to nearest edge (usually end or back edge)
  • 6.Install main piece, then glue cutout wedge piece back in
  • 7.Cover gap with decorative pipe collar or escutcheon

Toilet Flange Cutouts

  • 1.Remove toilet and clean flange area completely
  • 2.Create cardboard template of flange opening + 1/2" gap all around
  • 3.Position template on plank, accounting for multiple plank pieces if needed
  • 4.Trace template onto flooring, cut with jigsaw
  • 5.For floating floors, may need to cut planks from edge to flange
  • 6.Test fit before final installation (better to recut than force)
  • 7.May need toilet flange extender if floor is much thicker

Heating Vents/Registers

  • Remove vent cover before installation
  • Measure vent opening precisely (length and width)
  • Create cardboard template for complex shapes
  • Cut opening 1/4" smaller than vent cover (will be hidden)
  • Drill corner pilot holes, then jigsaw between holes
  • May need flush-mount or floor-height register for thicker floors

Irregular Wall Shapes

  • Use cardboard to create accurate template of irregular shape
  • For stone fireplaces, trace with contour gauge or cardboard
  • Transfer template to flooring, allowing for expansion gap
  • Cut slowly with jigsaw, staying slightly outside line
  • Test fit and trim as needed (easier to trim more than add back)
  • Caulk or use matching flexible molding for finished appearance

Professional Tips for Complex Cuts

  • • Always make cardboard templates for complex shapes (costs pennies, saves expensive planks)
  • • Take photos of obstacle areas before starting to reference later
  • • Measure twice, cut once (old saying, but critical for expensive materials)
  • • Practice difficult cuts on scrap pieces or cardboard first
  • • For tight curves, drill relief holes before jigsawing (prevents overcuts)
  • • Keep cuts slightly larger than needed, easier to trim than to fill gaps
  • • Use wood glue to reattach cutout pieces (pipes, odd shapes) after installation
  • • Remember expansion gap even around obstacles (1/4" minimum all around)

Step-by-Step Installation Process

1

Acclimate & Prepare Subfloor

  • Acclimate flooring: 48 hours minimum in room of installation (some manufacturers require 72 hours)
  • Maintain room temperature 65-85°F and 35-65% relative humidity
  • Clean subfloor: sweep, vacuum, remove all debris and nails
  • Check flatness: 3/16" in 10 feet (fill low spots, sand/grind high spots)
  • Concrete: ensure moisture levels are acceptable, install vapor barrier if needed
  • Repair any damaged, loose, or squeaky subfloor sections
2

Install Underlayment

  • Roll out underlayment perpendicular to flooring direction
  • For concrete: install 6-mil poly vapor barrier first (overlap 8", tape seams)
  • Butt foam underlayment seams (do not overlap)
  • Tape all seams with manufacturer-recommended tape (usually included)
  • Run underlayment up walls 2-3", trim after flooring installation
  • For pre-attached pad, skip this step but still use vapor barrier over concrete
3

Undercut Door Jambs & Plan Layout

  • Undercut all door jambs and casings (see undercutting section above)
  • Determine flooring direction (usually parallel to longest wall or perpendicular to joists)
  • Measure room width, calculate last row width (must be minimum 2" wide)
  • If last row will be too narrow, rip first row to balance appearance
  • Plan transition locations and doorway thresholds
  • Check walls for square (rarely are), plan to start against straightest wall
4

Install First Three Rows

  • Place spacers along starting wall (maintain 1/4"-3/8" expansion gap)
  • Install first plank in corner, groove side toward wall
  • Connect second plank at end (angle and snap locking mechanism)
  • Continue first row to opposite wall, cut last piece leaving expansion gap
  • Start second row with cutoff from first row (if 12"+ long) for stagger
  • Minimum 6" stagger between end joints in adjacent rows
  • Use tapping block and pull bar to ensure tight connections
5

Continue Installation (Rows 4+)

  • Rack out 3-4 rows ahead to check color variation and plan cuts
  • Maintain consistent stagger pattern (avoid H-joints and stair-stepping)
  • For angled locking systems: insert at 20-30° angle, lay flat to lock
  • For straight locking systems: slide horizontally into previous row
  • Use tapping block on groove side only (never hit tongue directly)
  • Check for gaps every few rows, use pull bar to close gaps at ends
6

Cut Around Obstacles

  • Measure and mark pipe, vent, and obstacle locations carefully
  • Create templates for complex shapes using cardboard
  • Drill holes 1/2" larger than pipes for expansion clearance
  • Cut from hole to edge, install main piece, glue wedge back
  • For toilets: remove toilet, create flange template, cut carefully
  • Always account for expansion gap around all fixed obstacles
7

Install Last Rows

  • Measure and rip last row to width (including expansion gap)
  • For click-lock: may need to remove locking tab on last row
  • Use pull bar to pull last row tight against previous row
  • In tight spots, apply small amount of wood glue to joint
  • Use heavy objects or floor jacks to hold in place while setting
  • Ensure expansion gap is maintained along final wall
8

Install Transitions & Moldings

  • Remove all spacers from perimeter
  • Install T-molding at doorways (use track system if available)
  • Install reducer strips at transitions to carpet or lower flooring
  • Install threshold/baby threshold at exterior doors
  • Install quarter round or shoe molding to cover expansion gap
  • Nail molding to baseboard/wall only, never to floor (allows movement)
  • Use color-matched putty or caulk for nail holes if needed
9

Final Inspection & Cleanup

  • Walk entire floor checking for loose planks or raised edges
  • Look for visible gaps in seams (tap tight with block if found)
  • Ensure all transitions are secure and level
  • Vacuum thoroughly including gaps under moldings
  • Damp mop with manufacturer-recommended cleaner (never saturate)
  • Trim excess underlayment and vapor barrier at walls
  • Install vent covers, toilet, and other fixtures removed earlier
10

Post-Installation Care

  • Wait 24 hours before moving furniture back (48 hours for glue-down)
  • Use furniture pads under all legs to prevent scratching
  • Place rugs at entrances to reduce dirt and moisture tracking
  • Maintain 35-65% humidity to prevent gapping or buckling
  • Clean regularly with damp (not wet) mop and recommended cleaner
  • Inspect periodically for any gaps, damage, or lifting edges
  • Keep manufacturer warranty and care instructions for reference

Best Practices & Common Mistakes

DO:

  • Acclimate flooring for minimum 48 hours in installation room
  • Use proper underlayment (vapor barrier over concrete is mandatory)
  • Maintain expansion gaps at all walls and fixed obstacles
  • Undercut door jambs for professional appearance
  • Stagger end joints minimum 6 inches between rows
  • Use tapping block and pull bar for tight, gap-free seams
  • Cut face-up with miter saw, face-down with circular saw (laminate)
  • Nail moldings to wall only, never to floating floor

DON'T:

  • Install without proper acclimation (causes gapping or buckling later)
  • Skip vapor barrier over concrete (moisture will damage floor)
  • Eliminate or reduce expansion gaps (floor will buckle)
  • Nail or screw through floating floor (defeats floating design)
  • Install over uneven subfloor (causes hollow spots and noise)
  • Force planks together with excessive hammering (damages locking system)
  • Create H-joints or insufficient stagger (weak installation)
  • Use dull saw blades (causes chipping and melting on vinyl)
Free Laminate & Vinyl Plank Flooring Guide - Click-Lock Installation & Techniques | DIYProject.ai