Retaining Wall Guide

Block selection, base preparation, drainage requirements, and height limitations for segmental block walls

What is a Segmental Block Retaining Wall?

A segmental retaining wall (SRW) is a gravity-type wall system built from interlocking concrete blocks that are dry-stacked (no mortar) to retain soil and create level areas on sloped terrain. These walls rely on their mass and built-in setback (batter) to resist soil pressure.

SRW blocks feature lips, pins, or interlocking mechanisms that create stability while allowing flexibility for settling and movement. The blocks are hollow or solid and typically weigh 40-80 pounds each, making them manageable for DIY projects up to certain heights.

Block Selection Guide
Block TypeTypical SizeWeightBest Use
Standard SRW Block12"H × 18"W × 12"D75-85 lbsWalls up to 4 feet without reinforcement
Hollow Core Block8"H × 18"W × 12"D50-60 lbsLighter handling, can fill cores for added weight
Solid Block6"H × 16"W × 12"D40-50 lbsGarden walls, planters, low terracing
Cap Blocks3"H × 18"W × 12"D30-40 lbsFinishing top course of wall

Block Design Features

  • Setback lip: Creates automatic batter (typically 3/4" per course) for stability
  • Pin holes: Accept fiberglass pins to secure courses together
  • Hollow cores: Allow for vertical reinforcement with rebar and concrete fill
  • Split face: Natural stone appearance on front face
  • Textured finish: Various colors and textures to match landscape
Base Material Depth and Compaction

Base Depth Requirements by Wall Height

Wall HeightTrench DepthBase Material DepthBuried Courses
Up to 2 feet6-8 inches6 inches compacted1 course (optional)
2-4 feet8-10 inches6-8 inches compacted1 course minimum
4+ feet12+ inches8-12 inches compacted1-2 courses

Base Material Specifications

  • Material type: 3/4" crushed angular stone (also called Class 5, road base, or CA6)
  • Not suitable: Round river rock, pea gravel, sand - these do not compact or interlock properly
  • Why crushed stone: Angular edges lock together when compacted, creating stable base
  • Drainage benefit: Crushed stone allows water to drain through base

Compaction Requirements

  • Compaction tool: Use plate compactor (rental) for walls over 2 feet. Hand tamper acceptable for small walls.
  • Lift thickness: Compact in 2-3 inch lifts (layers), not all at once
  • Minimum passes: 2-3 passes with plate compactor per lift
  • Target compaction: 95% modified proctor density (firm and unyielding)
  • Test method: Base should not move or sink when walked on

Base Material Calculator

Formula:

Cubic yards = (Length × Width × Depth in feet) ÷ 27

Example: 30-foot wall, 2-foot wide trench, 8-inch (0.67 ft) depth:

  • 30 × 2 × 0.67 = 40.2 cubic feet
  • 40.2 ÷ 27 = 1.5 cubic yards
  • Order 2 cubic yards to account for compaction
Leveling Pad Preparation

Step-by-Step Leveling Process

  1. Excavate trench: Dig to required depth along entire wall length, maintaining consistent depth
  2. Remove loose soil: Compact native soil at bottom of trench with plate compactor
  3. Add base material: Spread first 2-3 inch lift of crushed stone
  4. Rough level: Use rake to distribute stone evenly along trench
  5. Compact first lift: Make 2-3 passes with plate compactor
  6. Add subsequent lifts: Repeat until reaching desired base depth
  7. Fine leveling: Use straight 2×4 or screed board to level final surface
  8. Final compaction: Compact final lift, checking for level every few feet

Leveling Tools and Techniques

  • String line: Stretch taut string line along planned wall face at base block height
  • Line level: Hang line level on string to verify level along entire run
  • 4-6 ft level: Check compacted base every 3-4 feet for level
  • Transit or laser level: For long walls, use surveying equipment for precise leveling
  • Adjustment: Add or remove base material to achieve level. Re-compact after adjustments.

Dealing with Slopes

  • Stepped base: On slopes, create level steps in base rather than following slope
  • Step height: Each step should be one block height (8" typical)
  • Step length: Minimum 4 feet per step, longer is better for appearance
  • Overlap: Each step overlaps previous by at least half a block length
Block Setback Per Course (Batter)

Batter is the backward lean of a retaining wall, where each course is set back slightly from the course below. This setback tilts the wall into the retained soil, increasing stability and helping the wall resist overturning.

Block SystemSetback Per CourseTotal Batter (4 ft wall)Method
Lip-style blocks3/4" - 1" automatic4-5 inchesBlocks have built-in setback lip on bottom rear
Pin-style blocks3/4" via pins4 inchesFiberglass pins create automatic setback
Flat blocksUser-controlledVariesManual setback required, typically 3/4" per course

Installing Blocks with Setback

  1. First course: Place on leveling pad with front face aligned to string line
  2. Subsequent courses: Place block so rear lip or pins engage with course below
  3. Check alignment: Verify each block aligns with those adjacent before moving on
  4. Tap into place: Use rubber mallet to seat blocks firmly on course below
  5. Verify setback: Measure from a vertical reference point to ensure consistent batter

Common Setback Issues

  • Inconsistent setback: Creates wavy, unprofessional appearance
  • Blocks tilting forward: Indicates unlevel base or improper seating
  • Setback too extreme: Wall leans back excessively, wastes space
  • Even, consistent lean: All courses parallel, uniform appearance
Drainage Gravel and Pipe Placement

Drainage Gravel Backfill

  • Material: 3/4" clean crushed stone (no fines or sand)
  • Width: Minimum 12 inches behind wall blocks
  • Height: From base to within 6 inches of top of wall
  • Purpose: Creates drainage zone that prevents water from saturating retained soil
  • Installation: Place as each course is installed, compact lightly

Perforated Drain Pipe Installation

  • Pipe type: 4" perforated drain pipe (with sock to prevent clogging)
  • Location: At base of wall, on top of compacted base, behind first course
  • Slope: Minimum 1/8" per foot slope toward outlet
  • Holes orientation: Holes facing down (contrary to common belief)
  • Outlet: Pipe must daylight at end of wall or connect to drainage system
  • Gravel cover: Surround pipe with 6 inches of drainage gravel

Complete Drainage System Cross-Section

From front to back of wall:

  1. Retaining wall blocks
  2. 12+ inches of 3/4" crushed drainage stone
  3. Geotextile fabric (optional but recommended)
  4. Native soil backfill, compacted in 6-8 inch lifts

The geotextile fabric prevents fine soil particles from migrating into drainage gravel and clogging it over time.

Wall HeightMin Drainage WidthDrain Pipe Required?Geotextile Fabric?
Up to 2 feet12 inchesRecommendedOptional
2-4 feet12-18 inchesYesRecommended
4+ feet18-24 inchesYesYes
Geogrid Reinforcement Requirements by Height

Geogrid is a synthetic mesh material that extends from the wall back into the retained soil, creating a reinforced soil mass. It dramatically increases the effective weight and stability of taller retaining walls.

Wall HeightGeogrid Required?PlacementGrid Length
Up to 3 feetNoN/AN/A
3-4 feetRecommendedEvery 2-3 courses3-4 feet (0.6-0.7 × height)
4-6 feetYesEvery 2 courses4-6 feet (0.6-0.7 × height)
6+ feetYes, engineeredPer engineering specsPer engineer (typically 0.7 × height)

Geogrid Installation Steps

  1. Place grid: Unroll geogrid on top of designated course, extending back into excavation
  2. Position: Front edge should be 2-3 inches behind front face of block
  3. Overlap: Adjacent grid sections should overlap by 6-12 inches
  4. Place next course: Install blocks on top of geogrid, trapping it
  5. Backfill: Cover grid with 6 inches of soil and compact
  6. Continue: Add more soil lifts, compacting each before next grid layer

Geogrid Types

  • Biaxial geogrid: Strength in two directions, used for most retaining walls
  • Uniaxial geogrid: Strength in one direction, used in specific engineered applications
  • Strength rating: Measured in lbs/ft. Common ratings: 1,500-4,000 lbs/ft
  • Specifications: Use manufacturer-recommended grid for your block system
Cap Installation

Cap blocks are solid, flat-topped units that finish the top of the wall. They provide a clean appearance, protect the cores of blocks below, and can be adhered for additional security.

Cap Block Installation Steps

  1. Clean top course: Remove debris and dust from top of final course
  2. Apply adhesive: Run two beads of concrete adhesive along top of blocks
  3. Place cap block: Center cap block over wall blocks, press firmly into adhesive
  4. Check alignment: Use string line to keep caps aligned along length of wall
  5. Overhang: Caps typically overhang wall face by 1-1.5 inches on front
  6. Corner caps: Use provided corner cap units or miter-cut standard caps
  7. Cure time: Allow adhesive to cure 24-48 hours before backfilling behind wall

Cap Block Adhesive

  • Product: Concrete block adhesive or construction adhesive (tubes or cartridges)
  • Purpose: Prevents caps from shifting or being removed
  • Coverage: One tube covers approximately 8-10 cap blocks
  • Application: 1/4" bead along center and front edge of top course
  • Alternative: For extra security, caps can be pinned with rebar through cores
Cap TypeTypical SizeBest UseCost
Standard Cap3"H × 12"W × 18"LMost retaining walls$3-5 per block
Beveled Cap3"H × 14"W × 18"LWider overhang, decorative$4-6 per block
Column Cap4"H × 18"W × 18"LPillar caps, wall columns$8-12 per block
When Engineering is Required

Situations Requiring Professional Engineering

  • Wall height over 4 feet: Most jurisdictions require engineering for walls exceeding 4 feet
  • Slopes above wall: Surcharge loads from slopes require engineering analysis
  • Poor soil conditions: Clay, soft soil, or high water table conditions
  • Tiered walls: Multiple walls in close proximity create complex load conditions
  • Heavy loads: Driveways, structures, or equipment behind wall
  • Limited space: Insufficient room for proper geogrid length
  • Building codes: Local codes may require engineering regardless of height

What Engineers Analyze

  • Soil bearing capacity and stability
  • Wall sliding and overturning resistance
  • Proper geogrid type, spacing, and length
  • Drainage system adequacy
  • Seismic considerations (earthquake zones)
  • Foundation depth and width requirements
  • Global stability of entire slope

DIY-Friendly Wall Guidelines (No Engineering)

  • Maximum height: 3-4 feet (check local codes)
  • Level or gently sloping terrain above wall
  • Good drainage, well-draining soil
  • No surcharge loads (structures, vehicles, slopes)
  • Stable soil conditions
  • Follow manufacturer installation guidelines exactly
Tools and Materials Needed

Tools

  • Plate compactor (rental)
  • 4-6 ft level
  • String line and stakes
  • Line level
  • Tape measure
  • Wheelbarrow
  • Shovel and rake
  • Masonry saw or angle grinder (for cuts)
  • Rubber mallet
  • Circular saw with masonry blade
  • Chalk line
  • Safety glasses and gloves

Materials

  • Retaining wall blocks
  • Cap blocks
  • 3/4" crushed stone for base
  • 3/4" clean drainage stone
  • 4" perforated drain pipe with sock
  • Geotextile fabric
  • Geogrid (if required)
  • Concrete adhesive for caps
  • Native soil or fill for backfill
  • Landscape fabric (optional)
Safety and Code Considerations

Note: Retaining wall regulations vary significantly by jurisdiction. Height limits, setback requirements, engineering thresholds, and permit requirements differ between municipalities. Always verify local requirements before beginning construction.

Quick Reference Summary

Standard 3-Foot Wall (No Geogrid)

  • Base: 6-8 inches compacted crushed stone
  • Buried course: 1 course below grade
  • Drainage: 12" gravel backfill + drain pipe
  • Setback: 3/4" per course (automatic with lip blocks)
  • Cap: Glued with concrete adhesive

Key Success Factors

  • Level base is critical - check every 3 feet
  • Compact base in 2-3 inch lifts
  • Always install drainage gravel and pipe
  • Use geogrid for walls over 3 feet
  • Bury first course for stability
  • Get engineering for walls over 4 feet

Disclaimer: This guide provides general information about retaining wall construction. Soil conditions, site-specific factors, and local building codes vary significantly. For walls over 4 feet, walls supporting structures or slopes, or walls in poor soil conditions, always consult a licensed engineer. Improperly built retaining walls can fail catastrophically. When in doubt, hire a professional.

Free Retaining Wall Guide - Block Selection, Base Prep & Drainage | DIYProject.ai