Router Guide

Complete reference for router types, bit selection, feed direction, edge profiles, joinery techniques, and safety requirements. Essential for edge work, dadoes, and decorative profiles.

Router Types & Power

Compact/Trim Router (1-1.25 HP)

  • Lightweight (4-5 lbs), one-handed operation possible
  • 1/4" collet only (smaller bit shanks)
  • Best for: laminate trimming, edge roundovers, light detail work
  • Limited to smaller bits and shallow cuts
  • Excellent for intricate work and tight spaces
  • Price range: $100-200

Mid-Size Router (1.75-2.25 HP)

  • Most versatile size, handles majority of tasks
  • Both 1/4" and 1/2" collet options
  • Good balance of power and control
  • Best for: general woodworking, edge profiles, dadoes
  • Can be used handheld or in small router table
  • Price range: $150-300

Full-Size Router (3-3.25+ HP)

  • Maximum power for demanding cuts
  • 1/2" collet (stronger shank, less vibration)
  • Heavier (10-14 lbs) - harder to control handheld
  • Best for: router tables, raised panels, large bits
  • Handles hardwoods and deep cuts without bogging down
  • Price range: $200-400
Fixed Base vs Plunge Base

Fixed Base

  • Bit depth set before operation, doesn't change during cut
  • More stable platform - less wobble
  • Better for edge work and router table use
  • Simpler operation and setup
  • Slightly lower profile

Plunge Base

  • Bit can be lowered into work during operation
  • Essential for stopped cuts, mortises, inlays
  • Adjustable depth stops for multiple passes
  • Springs return router to raised position
  • More complex but more versatile

Recommendation

Many routers offer combo kits with interchangeable bases. For versatility, get both. If choosing one, fixed base handles 80% of tasks; get plunge if you do mortises or template work.

Common Router Bit Types
Bit TypeDescriptionCommon Uses
StraightFlat bottom, various widthsDadoes, grooves, rabbets, mortises
RoundoverRounded edge (1/8" to 1" radius)Softening edges, handrails, furniture
Chamfer45° angled edgeDecorative edges, panel chamfers
CoveConcave curved profileDecorative molding, edges
Flush TrimBearing-guided straight bitTrimming to template, edge banding
Pattern/TemplateBearing above cutting edgeDuplicating shapes from template
RabbetingBearing-guided L-shape cutCabinet backs, picture frames
OgeeS-curve decorative profileTraditional molding, table edges
Roman OgeeClassic decorative edgeFurniture edges, trim
DovetailAngled sides (7°-14°)Dovetail joints, drawer construction
Collet Sizes: 1/4" vs 1/2"
Feature1/4" Shank1/2" Shank
StabilityLess stableMore stable, less vibration
Breakage riskHigherLower
Bit varietyGood for small bitsBest for large bits
CostUsually cheaperSlightly more
Router requirementAny routerMid-size or larger

Recommendation

Always use 1/2" shank bits when available - they're more stable, less prone to breaking, and produce cleaner cuts. Only use 1/4" for small bits that don't come in 1/2" or when using a trim router.

Feed Direction - Critical Safety

⚠️ ALWAYS Feed Against Bit Rotation

Feeding the wrong direction (climb cutting) causes the bit to grab the wood and pull the router violently forward. This is extremely dangerous.

Handheld Router

  • Outside edges: Move LEFT to RIGHT (counterclockwise around workpiece)
  • Inside edges (holes): Move CLOCKWISE around the opening
  • The bit should be pulling into the material, not pushing away

Router Table

  • Feed RIGHT to LEFT (bit rotates opposite direction from handheld)
  • Work goes past the bit from right to left
  • Fence is on the outfeed side

Memory Trick

The bit should always be fighting against your feed direction. If the router wants to pull/run away from you, you're going the wrong direction.

Speed Settings by Bit Diameter
Bit DiameterMax Speed (RPM)
Up to 1"22,000-24,000
1" to 2"18,000-22,000
2" to 2-1/2"12,000-16,000
2-1/2" to 3"10,000-12,000
3" to 3-1/2"8,000-10,000

Larger bits at high speed can be dangerous. The outer edge of a 3" bit at 20,000 RPM is traveling over 150 mph.

Safety Requirements

Required PPE

  • Face shield (not just glasses): Bits can shatter at high RPM
  • Hearing protection: Routers are extremely loud (95-105 dB)
  • Dust collection/mask: Fine dust is harmful to lungs
  • No loose clothing, jewelry, or gloves that can catch

Critical Safety Practices

  • Always unplug when changing bits
  • Start router before contacting workpiece
  • Maintain firm grip - high torque on startup
  • Take multiple shallow passes, not one deep cut
  • Let bit reach full speed before cutting
  • Keep bit sharp - dull bits burn and grab

Workpiece Security

  • Clamp work securely - routers have high torque
  • Small pieces should be secured or routed on router table
  • Never hold small pieces by hand while routing
Common Router Operations

Edge Profiling

  • Use bearing-guided bit (roundover, ogee, chamfer)
  • Bearing rides along edge for consistent depth
  • Move left to right on outside edges
  • Start with end grain, then sides (hides tearout)

Dadoes & Grooves

  • Use straight bit with edge guide or template
  • Set depth to 1/3 to 1/2 material thickness
  • Multiple passes for deeper dadoes
  • Clamp straightedge as guide for straight dadoes

Rabbets

  • Use rabbeting bit with bearing
  • Different bearing sizes = different rabbet widths
  • Common for picture frame backs, cabinet backs

Template Routing

  • Create template from MDF or plywood
  • Attach template to workpiece
  • Use flush trim or pattern bit
  • Bearing follows template, bit cuts workpiece to match

Additional Information

About This Router Guide

The router is one of the most versatile tools in woodworking, capable of edge profiles, dadoes, rabbets, mortises, and countless decorative cuts. With the right bit and technique, a router can produce professional-quality results that would otherwise require expensive specialized equipment.

Understanding feed direction is critical for safe router operation. The spinning bit creates tremendous force - feeding in the wrong direction (climb cutting) causes the router to grab the wood and pull forward violently, potentially causing serious injury. Always feed against the bit rotation.

Routers are loud and create fine dust, making hearing and respiratory protection essential. Face shields are recommended over safety glasses because bits can shatter at the high speeds routers operate. With proper technique and safety practices, the router becomes an indispensable tool for furniture making, trim work, and countless other projects.

Why Use This Router Reference?

Router operations require understanding feed direction, speed settings, and bit selection. This guide provides quick reference for these critical factors.

  • Understand different router types and when to use each
  • Select the right bit for each operation
  • Know correct feed direction to prevent dangerous climb cutting
  • Set appropriate speed for different bit sizes
  • Choose between 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits
  • Follow essential safety practices
  • Perform common router operations correctly
Frequently Asked Questions

What router should a beginner buy?

Start with a mid-size router (1.75-2.25 HP) that includes both 1/4" and 1/2" collets. This gives you versatility to use almost any bit while being manageable for handheld work. Look for variable speed control, which is important for larger bits. A combo kit with fixed and plunge bases offers the most flexibility. Popular choices include Bosch 1617EVSPK, DeWalt DW618PK, and for a compact option, the Makita RT0701C. Budget $150-250 for a quality starter router.

Why is the router so dangerous?

Routers spin at 10,000-25,000 RPM with exposed cutting bits. The main dangers are: climb cutting (feeding wrong direction causes violent grabbing), bits shattering at high speed, high torque on startup that can twist the router from your hands, and severe noise causing hearing damage. Always use a face shield (not just glasses), hearing protection, and dust collection. Never climb cut, always unplug when changing bits, and maintain a firm two-handed grip. Start the router before contacting the workpiece.

What's the difference between flush trim and pattern bits?

Both have a bearing that follows a template to create identical cuts, but the bearing position differs. Flush trim bits have the bearing at the tip (bottom) - the template goes under the workpiece. Pattern bits have the bearing near the shank (top) - the template goes on top of the workpiece. Choose based on which setup is more convenient for your specific project. Some operations work better with template on top, others with template on bottom.

How do I prevent router bit burning?

Burning is caused by friction from: dull bits, moving too slowly, taking too deep a cut, or wrong speed for bit size. Solutions: use sharp bits (carbide stays sharp longer), keep the router moving at a steady pace, take multiple shallow passes instead of one deep cut, and reduce speed for larger bits. If you see smoke or smell burning, you're going too slow or the bit is dull. Burn marks are hard to sand out, so prevention is key.

Do I need a router table?

A router table isn't essential but greatly expands what you can do. Tables excel at: small pieces too dangerous to hold by hand, consistent edge profiles on multiple pieces, narrow boards that tip when handheld routing, and some joinery operations. Start with handheld routing to learn fundamentals, then add a table when you find yourself limited. A basic table can be shop-made for under $100, or quality commercial tables run $200-500. Mount your largest router in the table and keep a smaller one for handheld work.

Why do my router edges have tearout?

Tearout happens when wood fibers tear rather than cut cleanly. Causes and solutions: end grain tears worst - route end grain first, then sides (the side cuts clean up any end grain tearout). Dull bits tear rather than cut - use sharp carbide bits. Taking too much material at once causes tearing - make multiple lighter passes. Feeding too fast doesn't let the bit cut cleanly. For figured or difficult grain, try climb cutting (very carefully, with light passes) on the final pass, or use a spiral upcut/downcut bit designed for clean cuts.