Foundation options, framing basics, roofing, door sizing, and permit thresholds
A storage shed is a small outdoor structure used for storing tools, equipment, lawn care items, or serving as a workshop. Building your own shed allows you to customize size, features, and design while potentially saving money compared to pre-built options.
Proper planning is critical—foundation choice, framing techniques, and local building codes all impact the longevity and legality of your shed. Most sheds range from 6×8 feet to 12×16 feet, with larger sizes often requiring permits.
| Foundation Type | Best For Shed Size | Cost | Pros & Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gravel Pad | Up to 10×12 ft | $ | Pros: Drainage, easy DIY. Cons: Can shift over time, not suitable for uneven terrain. |
| Concrete Blocks | Up to 12×16 ft | $$ | Pros: Good drainage, adjustable for slope. Cons: Requires leveling, blocks can settle. |
| Wooden Skids | Up to 10×12 ft | $$ | Pros: Portable, easy to level. Cons: Wood rots over time, requires pressure-treated lumber. |
| Concrete Slab | Any size (especially 12×16+) | $$$ | Pros: Most durable, level floor, supports heavy equipment. Cons: Expensive, permanent, requires forms and skill. |
| Deck Blocks | Up to 8×10 ft | $ | Pros: Quick setup, no digging. Cons: Limited stability for larger sheds, can sink in soft soil. |
| Roof Type | Best For | Framing Details |
|---|---|---|
| Gable Roof | Most sheds, traditional look | 2×4 or 2×6 rafters on 24" O.C., ridge board, 4/12 to 8/12 pitch |
| Shed (Lean-to) Roof | Simple sheds, tight spaces | 2×4 rafters on 24" O.C., minimum 3/12 pitch for drainage |
| Gambrel Roof | Maximum headroom/storage | 2×4 rafters, requires angled cuts, more complex framing |
| Material | Thickness | Pros & Cons |
|---|---|---|
| OSB (Oriented Strand Board) | 7/16" or 1/2" | Cost-effective, good structural strength. Swells if wet. |
| Plywood | 1/2" or 5/8" | Better moisture resistance, more expensive than OSB. |
| T1-11 Siding | 5/8" | Sheathing and siding in one. Must be painted/stained regularly. |
| Roofing Type | Lifespan | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Asphalt Shingles | 15-30 years | $ | Most common, easy installation, wide color selection. Use 3-tab or architectural shingles. |
| Metal Roofing | 40-70 years | $$ | Very durable, reflects heat, can be noisy in rain. Standing seam or corrugated panels. |
| Roll Roofing | 5-10 years | $ | Quick and cheap for low-slope roofs. Not aesthetically pleasing, short lifespan. |
| Cedar Shakes | 20-40 years | $$$ | Natural look, requires maintenance, can be fire hazard in some areas. |
| Door Type | Standard Size | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Single Entry Door | 36" wide × 80" tall | Standard access, hand tools, small equipment |
| Double Doors | 60"-72" wide × 80" tall | Riding mowers, ATVs, larger equipment |
| Barn-Style Doors | 72"-96" wide × 80"-84" tall | Tractors, cars, large machinery |
| Overhead Garage Door | 8' or 9' wide × 7' tall | Vehicles, workshop sheds, maximum access |
Permit requirements vary significantly by location. Below are common thresholds, but always verify with your local building department.
| Jurisdiction Type | Typical Permit-Free Size | Common Requirements |
|---|---|---|
| Most US Cities | Up to 120 sq ft | 10×12 or smaller, single story, no permanent foundation |
| Rural/Unincorporated | Up to 200 sq ft | More lenient, but still check county regulations |
| HOA Communities | Varies (often stricter) | May require approval even for small sheds, architectural review |
| Canada (varies) | Up to 108 sq ft | Typically 10×10 or smaller, check provincial/municipal codes |
Choose location, measure space, check setback requirements. Determine size and whether permits are needed. Submit plans if required. Check for underground utilities (call 811).
Level ground, remove grass/sod. Install chosen foundation (gravel pad, blocks, skids, or pour slab). Ensure level in all directions using 4-ft or longer level.
Construct rim joist frame from pressure-treated lumber. Install floor joists on 16" O.C. using joist hangers. Square frame by measuring diagonals. Attach 3/4" plywood/OSB decking.
Build wall frames on deck (bottom plate, studs 16" O.C., double top plate). Frame door and window openings with proper headers. Raise walls and temporarily brace. Connect corners and attach to floor frame.
Cut rafters to proper pitch and length (use a rafter calculator or Speed Square). Install ridge board and attach rafters on 24" O.C. Add collar ties or ceiling joists. Install gable end framing.
Install wall sheathing (OSB or plywood) over studs. Add roof decking perpendicular to rafters. Apply house wrap or felt paper to walls. Install drip edge and underlayment on roof.
Apply chosen roofing material starting from bottom edge. Overlap shingles or panels properly. Install ridge cap. Add soffit vents if applicable for ventilation.
Install corner trim and door/window trim first. Apply siding from bottom up, maintaining proper overlap. Install fascia and soffit boards. Caulk all seams and paint/stain as needed.
Set windows in openings, level and shim. Flash properly and secure. Hang doors, install hardware. Add weatherstripping for tight seal. Install any electrical fixtures if planned.
Add gutters if desired for water management. Install shelving, hooks, or workbench. Apply final paint/stain coats. Clean site and enjoy your new shed!
Note: This guide provides general information for shed building. Local codes, climate factors, and soil conditions vary. Consult local building officials and consider hiring professionals for complex aspects like electrical work.
Disclaimer: This guide provides general information about shed building. Local building codes, climate conditions, and site-specific factors may require different approaches. Always verify with local building officials and consider consulting with professionals for complex projects.