Table Saw Guide

Complete reference for table saw types, blade selection, kickback prevention, rip cuts, crosscuts, and essential safety practices. Critical safety information for the most dangerous common workshop tool.

⚠️ Critical Safety Warning

Table saws cause more serious injuries than any other power tool

  • Over 30,000 emergency room visits annually in the US
  • Approximately 4,000 amputations per year
  • Kickback can happen in milliseconds
  • Always use safety equipment - no exceptions

This guide prioritizes safety information. Please read all safety sections carefully before operating a table saw.

Table Saw Types

Benchtop / Portable

  • Lightweight (45-60 lbs), sits on workbench or stand
  • Direct-drive motor, 1-1.5 HP
  • Smallest table surface, basic fence
  • Limited precision, more vibration
  • Best for: job sites, occasional DIY, limited space
  • Price range: $150-400

Contractor / Job Site

  • Larger table, improved fence system, 1.5-2 HP
  • Often includes folding stand with wheels
  • Better dust collection than benchtop
  • Open base (motor hangs off back)
  • Best for: serious DIY, semi-professional work
  • Price range: $300-700

Hybrid

  • Cabinet-style features at contractor price
  • 1.5-2 HP, enclosed base for dust collection
  • Heavier, more stable platform
  • Better fence than contractor saws
  • Best for: dedicated workshops on a budget
  • Price range: $600-1,200

Cabinet

  • Professional grade, 3-5 HP motors
  • Heavy cast iron construction (400-600+ lbs)
  • Maximum precision and stability
  • Full enclosure for excellent dust collection
  • Best for: professional shops, serious woodworking
  • Price range: $1,500-5,000+
Essential Safety Equipment

Riving Knife - MOST IMPORTANT

  • Thin metal plate that sits directly behind the blade
  • Prevents wood from closing back on the blade
  • Primary defense against kickback
  • Never remove unless absolutely necessary
  • Rises and falls with blade - stays aligned

Blade Guard

  • Clear plastic cover over spinning blade
  • Prevents accidental contact with blade
  • Contains dust and debris
  • Remove only when it prevents a specific cut
  • Reinstall immediately after that cut

Push Sticks & Push Blocks

  • Push stick: Hook end pushes back of board, keeps hands away
  • Push block: Downward pressure on board, shoe pushes back
  • Use when ripping boards narrower than 6"
  • Hands should NEVER be within 6" of blade
  • Have multiple push sticks ready at all times

Featherboards

  • Angled fingers press work against fence or table
  • Provides consistent pressure through entire cut
  • Helps prevent kickback by keeping work steady
  • Position before the blade, not beside it
Kickback Prevention

What is Kickback?

When wood binds on the blade, it can be violently thrown back at the operator at speeds exceeding 100 mph. This causes the majority of serious table saw injuries.

Causes of Kickback

  • Fence not parallel to blade (pinches wood)
  • Wood closing on back of blade (no riving knife)
  • Releasing wood before cut is complete
  • Using fence for crosscuts (traps cut-off)
  • Internal wood stress causing wood to twist
  • Reaching over spinning blade

Prevention

  • Always use the riving knife
  • Stand to the side of blade, never directly behind
  • Keep fence parallel to blade (check alignment)
  • Never use fence for crosscuts - use miter gauge
  • Never reach over or behind spinning blade
  • Use featherboards to maintain consistent pressure
  • Let blade stop completely before retrieving pieces
  • Check wood for warps and internal stress
Blade Selection
Blade TypeTeethBest For
Rip blade24-30Cutting with grain, fast lumber ripping
Crosscut blade60-80Cutting across grain, clean edges
Combination blade40-50General purpose, most DIY work
Plywood/Melamine80+Sheet goods, veneers, no chipout
Thin kerfVariousLess powerful saws, less waste

Kerf Considerations:

  • Full kerf (1/8"): More stable, best for powerful saws (2+ HP)
  • Thin kerf (3/32"): Less waste, easier on weaker motors
Dado Blades

What is a Dado?

A flat-bottomed groove cut across the grain (dado) or with the grain (groove/rabbet). Used for joinery - shelves, drawer bottoms, cabinet backs.

Stacked Dado Set

  • Two outer blades plus chipper blades in between
  • Combine to create exact width needed
  • Maximum width typically 13/16" (fits 3/4" plywood)
  • Produces flat-bottomed dadoes

Important Notes

  • Remove riving knife and blade guard for dado cuts
  • Never exceed maximum width for your saw
  • Use featherboards to hold work down
  • Make multiple passes for deep dadoes
  • Note: Dado blades illegal in some countries (UK, EU)
Rip Cuts vs Crosscuts

Rip Cuts (With the Grain)

  • Use the fence to guide the cut
  • Keep board flat on table and against fence
  • Use push stick for narrow rips (under 6")
  • Riving knife prevents wood closing on blade
  • Check fence is parallel to blade before cutting

Crosscuts (Across the Grain)

  • Use miter gauge or crosscut sled - NOT the fence
  • Fence causes cut-off to trap between fence and blade
  • This trapped piece causes kickback
  • If fence needed for stop, use auxiliary fence that ends before blade
  • Crosscut sled provides safest, most accurate crosscuts

⚠️ NEVER use fence and miter gauge together for crosscuts

The cut-off piece gets trapped between the fence and blade, causing violent kickback.

Safe Operating Zone

Clearance Requirements

  • Front: Minimum 36" clearance for operator stance
  • Back: Minimum 36" for outfeed support
  • Sides: 24" minimum for maneuvering
  • Infeed: Support for long boards entering saw
  • Outfeed: Table or roller stand for cut pieces

Operator Position

  • Stand to the left of the blade (for right-hand fence)
  • Never stand directly in line with blade
  • Maintain balanced stance
  • Keep body positioned so kickback goes past you
SawStop & Flesh-Sensing Technology

How It Works

  • Blade carries small electrical signal
  • Human contact changes signal (flesh is conductive)
  • Detection triggers brake within 5 milliseconds
  • Brake stops blade before serious injury occurs
  • Typically results in minor nick instead of amputation

Considerations

  • Brake cartridge needs replacement after activation (~$100)
  • May need blade replacement too if damaged
  • Can't use on wet wood or conductive materials
  • SawStop brand pioneered; others entering market
  • Premium cost but potentially life-changing safety

Additional Information

About This Table Saw Guide

The table saw is arguably the most useful - and most dangerous - tool in a workshop. It excels at rip cuts (cutting wood to width) and with proper accessories, handles crosscuts, dadoes, rabbets, and many joinery operations. Its power and precision make it indispensable for furniture making and cabinetry.

However, table saws cause more serious injuries than any other power tool. This guide emphasizes safety above all else. The riving knife is your most important safety feature - it prevents the most common cause of serious injury (kickback from wood closing on the back of the blade). Never remove it unless absolutely necessary.

Understanding when to use the fence versus the miter gauge, proper push stick technique, and correct body position can mean the difference between a close call and a life-altering injury. Take the time to learn proper technique before operating any table saw.

Why Use This Table Saw Reference?

Safety complacency is the leading cause of table saw injuries - experienced users often have more accidents than beginners because they skip safety steps. This guide serves as a constant reminder of critical safety practices.

  • Understand the different types of table saws
  • Learn why the riving knife is critical for safety
  • Know when to use fence vs miter gauge
  • Select the right blade for each operation
  • Prevent kickback through proper technique
  • Set up a safe operating environment
  • Understand modern safety technology options
Frequently Asked Questions

Free Table Saw Guide - Safety, Blade Selection & Kickback Prevention | DIYProject.ai