Wood Species Performance and Finish Guide

Compare wood species by hardness, workability, and best finishes. Helps select the right wood for furniture, trim, and outdoor projects.

Wood Species Comparison Chart

Species	Janka Hardness	Grain	Rot Resistance	Best Finish
SOFTWOODS
Pine (Eastern White)	380	Tight, minimal figure	Low	Paint, primer required
Pine (Southern Yellow)	690	Pronounced grain	Moderate	Stain, polyurethane
Cedar (Western Red)	350	Straight, aromatic	Excellent	Oil or natural (weathers)
Fir (Douglas)	660	Straight, prominent	Moderate	Stain, clear finish
Redwood	450	Straight, fine	Excellent	Oil or natural
HARDWOODS
Oak (Red)	1290	Open, prominent	Low	Stain (takes well), poly
Oak (White)	1360	Closed, straight	Good	Stain, oil, outdoor use
Maple (Hard)	1450	Tight, uniform	Low	Clear finish, difficult to stain
Cherry (Black)	950	Fine, smooth	Moderate	Oil, clear (darkens with age)
Walnut (Black)	1010	Straight, rich	Good	Oil, Danish oil, clear
Ash	1320	Open, prominent	Low	Stain, clear finish

Janka Hardness: Higher numbers = harder wood, more dent resistant

Understanding Janka Hardness

What it measures: Force (pounds) required to embed a 0.444" steel ball halfway into wood

Hardness Scale Reference:

<500: Very soft - dents/scratches easily (Cedar, Pine)
500-900: Soft to medium - suitable for furniture (Cherry, Walnut)
900-1500: Hard - good for flooring, heavy use (Oak, Maple, Ash)
1500+: Very hard - excellent for high-traffic flooring (Hickory, Brazilian Cherry)

Application Guide:

Flooring: 1000+ recommended for durability
Furniture/Cabinets: 500-1200 range works well
Cutting boards: 900-1500 (hard enough, not too hard on knives)
Outdoor projects: Rot resistance matters more than hardness

Grain Porosity & Finishing Implications

Open-Grain Woods

Examples: Red Oak, Ash, Walnut

Characteristics: Large, visible pores

Finishing:

Use grain filler for smooth, glassy finish
Accepts stain very well
May require more finish coats to fill pores
Oil finishes soak in deeply

Closed-Grain (Tight-Grain) Woods

Examples: Maple, Cherry, White Oak

Characteristics: Small, tight pores

Finishing:

Naturally smooth surface
Difficult to stain evenly (especially Maple - use gel stain)
Clear finishes work beautifully
Requires less finish material

Optimal Finish Types by Wood

Oil Finish (Tung, Linseed, Danish Oil)

Best For: Walnut, Cherry, Teak, outdoor furniture

Pros: Easy application, enhances natural color, repairable

Cons: Less protective, requires reapplication

Gel Stain + Polyurethane

Best For: Maple, Pine, blotch-prone woods

Pros: Even color, highly protective topcoat

Cons: Can obscure grain slightly

Water-Based Stain + Poly

Best For: Oak, Ash (open-grain woods)

Pros: Penetrates well, low odor, fast drying

Cons: Raises grain, requires sanding between coats

Oil-Based Stain + Poly

Best For: Most hardwoods, traditional look

Pros: Deep color, long open time for blending

Cons: Slow drying, strong odor, yellows over time

Paint (Primer + Topcoat)

Best For: Pine, Poplar, MDF, utilitarian projects

Pros: Hides imperfections, unlimited color options

Cons: Completely obscures wood grain

Natural/No Finish

Best For: Cedar, Redwood outdoor projects

Pros: Zero maintenance initially, weathers beautifully

Cons: Will gray over time, no stain protection

Natural Rot Resistance

Excellent (Heartwood):

Cedar (Western Red, Eastern White)
Redwood
Cypress
White Oak (heartwood)
Teak (imported, expensive)
Ipe (tropical hardwood)

Moderate:

Douglas Fir
Southern Yellow Pine (pressure-treated exceeds this)
Cherry

Low (Not Outdoor Suitable):

Maple
Red Oak
Ash
Birch
Eastern White Pine

Note: "Heartwood" (inner, darker wood) is more rot-resistant than "sapwood" (outer, lighter wood). For outdoor projects, select heartwood or use pressure-treated lumber.

Wood Selection by Application

Flooring

Best: Red Oak, White Oak, Hard Maple, Hickory (Janka 1000+)

Why: Hardness resists dents, takes heavy traffic

Furniture (Fine)

Best: Walnut, Cherry, Maple, White Oak

Why: Beautiful grain, stable, workable

Cabinets

Best: Oak, Maple, Cherry, Birch

Why: Stable, accepts finishes well, affordable

Outdoor Decking

Best: Cedar, Redwood, Pressure-Treated Pine, Ipe

Why: Rot resistance, weather durability

Trim/Molding (Paint-Grade)

Best: Pine, Poplar, MDF

Why: Inexpensive, smooth surface, stable

Butcher Block/Cutting Boards

Best: Hard Maple, Cherry, Walnut

Why: Food-safe, hard but not too hard on knives

Framing/Construction

Best: Douglas Fir, Southern Yellow Pine, Spruce

Why: Strong, affordable, readily available

Common Finishing Mistakes by Wood Type

❌ Staining Maple without gel stain or conditioner

Result: Blotchy, uneven finish

❌ Using water-based finish on Cherry without UV protection

Result: Fades/changes color more than oil-based

❌ Not filling grain on Oak before gloss finish

Result: Pores visible, not smooth/glassy

❌ Using indoor-only finish on Cedar outdoors

Result: Finish fails, wood still weathers (use exterior oil or leave natural)

Additional Information

About This Wood Species Guide

This comprehensive wood species performance and finish guide helps woodworkers, furniture makers, and DIYers select the right wood for their projects and apply the best finish for each species. Understanding the characteristics of different woods - from hardness and grain pattern to rot resistance and finishing properties - is essential for achieving professional results.

The Janka hardness scale provides a standardized measure of wood density and dent resistance, helping you choose appropriate species for flooring, furniture, cutting boards, and other applications. Grain porosity affects how wood accepts stain and finish, with open-grain woods like oak requiring different techniques than closed-grain species like maple.

Whether you're building fine furniture from walnut, installing oak flooring, or constructing an outdoor deck from cedar, this guide provides the information you need to select the right wood and finish it properly for long-lasting, beautiful results.

Why Use This Wood Species Reference Guide?

Choosing the right wood and finish ensures your projects look beautiful and perform well for years. This guide helps you make informed decisions for any woodworking application.

Compare Janka hardness ratings to select wood appropriate for your application
Understand grain porosity and its impact on staining and finishing
Choose naturally rot-resistant species for outdoor projects
Select the optimal finish type for each wood species
Avoid common finishing mistakes that ruin project appearance
Match wood characteristics to specific applications like flooring, furniture, or decking

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best wood for hardwood flooring?

For hardwood flooring, choose species with Janka hardness ratings of 1000 or higher to resist dents and wear from foot traffic. Red oak (1290) and white oak (1360) are the most popular choices - they're hard enough for durability, accept stain well, and are widely available at reasonable prices. Hard maple (1450) is excellent for very high-traffic areas but is difficult to stain evenly. Hickory (1820) offers superior hardness but has dramatic grain variation. For maximum durability, consider Brazilian cherry or ipe, but these are significantly more expensive.

Why does maple stain blotchy and how do I prevent it?

Maple has very tight, closed grain that absorbs stain unevenly, causing blotchy, dark spots where the wood is more porous. To prevent blotching, use a pre-stain wood conditioner before applying stain, or better yet, use gel stain instead of liquid stain. Gel stain sits on top of the wood rather than penetrating, resulting in more even color. Another option is to use a clear finish and let maple's natural light color show - it's beautiful without stain. If you must use liquid stain, apply multiple light coats and wipe immediately rather than letting it soak in.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?

For outdoor furniture, choose species with natural rot resistance: cedar, redwood, white oak (heartwood), teak, or ipe. Cedar and redwood are softwoods that are easy to work with and weather to a beautiful gray if left unfinished. Teak is the premium choice with excellent rot resistance and dimensional stability, but it's expensive. Ipe is extremely hard and durable but difficult to work and requires pre-drilling for fasteners. For a budget option, use pressure-treated pine, but it requires regular sealing and doesn't have the natural beauty of rot-resistant hardwoods.

Should I use oil or polyurethane finish on wood furniture?

Choose based on the look you want and how much protection you need. Oil finishes (tung oil, Danish oil, linseed oil) penetrate the wood and enhance natural beauty with a low sheen, but provide minimal protection against water and scratches - they require periodic reapplication. Polyurethane creates a durable surface film that protects against moisture and wear, ideal for tabletops and high-use surfaces. For the best of both worlds, use an oil-poly blend. Cherry and walnut often look best with oil finishes that deepen over time, while oak and maple benefit from polyurethane's protection.

What's the difference between red oak and white oak?

Despite similar names, red oak and white oak have important differences. Red oak has an open grain with large pores that are open (visible as lines), accepts stain very well, and has low rot resistance - it's best for indoor furniture and flooring. White oak has closed, smaller pores that make it more water-resistant and rot-resistant, so it can be used outdoors and was traditionally used for boat building and whiskey barrels. White oak is slightly harder (1360 vs 1290 Janka) and typically more expensive. Both take stain well, but white oak's tighter grain provides a smoother finished surface.

Do I need to fill the grain on oak before finishing?

Grain filling is optional and depends on the look you want. Oak's open grain creates a textured surface that many people find attractive - if you like this natural look, skip the filler. However, if you want a smooth, glass-like finish (common on formal furniture), you'll need to fill the pores with paste wood filler before applying your topcoat. Apply filler across the grain, let it haze, then wipe off excess with burlap or coarse cloth. Multiple coats may be needed for deep pores. For a compromise, use a sanding sealer that partially fills pores without completely eliminating the oak grain texture.

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